2013 Track Junkie Thread
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From: Maryland
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From: West Virginia
Who did you find to do the revalving? I remember you posted KW wouldn't do it.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
The knuckle doesn't need to be replaced unless it's damaged. The hub (part with wheel studs) is usually replaced because it's difficult to remove the old inner bearing race without damaging the hub. Be sure you or your shop has a torque wrench to hit 242lb-ft. Under or over tightening will lead to early bearing failure.
Nice beater Pete. Do those things handle as good they look?
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
It handles pretty decent for a car with the wheelbase of a radio flyer wagon. 18lbs of boost and 170 lb ft of torque means it feels fast. Barrie will probably bring it out to the track and I am sure that we will autox it a few times to get a sense of what it does at the limits.
Driving out to SP in the truck was killing me with gas costs, the Abarth will be a better way to get to work.
I'm having TWF do the revalve. He has a motorcycle racing suspension shop and found a way to bump up the high speed rebound by 190lb at 4 inches/sec and higher. If my car handles the 800 front 700lb rear springs he'll offer the revalve to other KW V3 and ClubSport owners. I don't know what he'll charge for the service.
The knuckle doesn't need to be replaced unless it's damaged. The hub (part with wheel studs) is usually replaced because it's difficult to remove the old inner bearing race with damaging the hub. Be sure you or your shop has a torque wrench to hit 242lb-ft. Under or over tightening will lead to early bearing failure.
Nice beater Pete. Do those things handle as good they look?
Driving out to SP in the truck was killing me with gas costs, the Abarth will be a better way to get to work.
Originally Posted by clarkster009' timestamp='1359061760' post='22290221
Who did you find to do the revalving? I remember you posted KW wouldn't do it.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
The knuckle doesn't need to be replaced unless it's damaged. The hub (part with wheel studs) is usually replaced because it's difficult to remove the old inner bearing race with damaging the hub. Be sure you or your shop has a torque wrench to hit 242lb-ft. Under or over tightening will lead to early bearing failure.
Nice beater Pete. Do those things handle as good they look?
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,662
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Originally Posted by clarkster009' timestamp='1359061760' post='22290221
Who did you find to do the revalving? I remember you posted KW wouldn't do it.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
I am giving my car a little bit of a refresh and getting some new hubs and bearings...do I need to change the knuckle too, or should that be ok? I saw your Wheel Bearing tutorial and noticed you reused the knuckle. The car has about 100K miles roughly right now.
The knuckle doesn't need to be replaced unless it's damaged. The hub (part with wheel studs) is usually replaced because it's difficult to remove the old inner bearing race without damaging the hub. Be sure you or your shop has a torque wrench to hit 242lb-ft. Under or over tightening will lead to early bearing failure.
Nice beater Pete. Do those things handle as good they look?
Ok, thanks...that's what I figured but just wanted to be sure. I am going to replace the hubs and bearings together. I am having David help me with the install
