rioyellows2k

You can use a ratchet with 3/8 in drive with no socket on the s2000 rear piston. It fits right into the piston where the two notches meet. This worked fine at the track when someone forgot their cube. Just make sure you use a hand ratchet and not a power tool and turn slowly without exerting too much force. You're going to do a brake flush too I presume?

Voodoo_S2K

I have a piston retracting tool, but I still use a 3/8" socket driver every time. Works better and quicker.

FISH22

Good to know.

Do you have to apply a ton of force while twisting it for it to retract? Or is just twisting it efficient?

FISH22

Yes. I'll be replacing my Super Blue with Type 200.

A friend brought over his Motive Power Bleeder for me to borrow. Should make things go much quicker.

So far I have everything I need(except the impact driver for the rotor screws) to do the job. Just waiting on the pads, which should be showing up today.

Voodoo_S2K

It takes a little bit of force to get it moving, but once it starts moving, it doesn't take much after that.

EstooK

What I do to get the bitch screws out is obviously use of an impact driver, But try this before anything. Take two hammers one with the round end (perferably) and a traditional hammer, Place the round end of one hammer between the studs and give a few sharp blows with the other hammer. Be careful not to strike the studs take your time and strike the rotor (I do 3-5) sharp strikes. This knocks the rust out and then try the ID, Once again take your time and strike it smooth and sharp and you shoud have that lil bitch in your hand with no problem .

BrakeExpert

More info for ya:

The rear calipers. Use an iron hand file. Thats it. Put it into the + and use it rotate the piston clockwise while your facing it. Its that easy.

For the rotors. If the screws are SUPER stuck, you may use the edge of the + on the phillips head screw and use a chisel and a hammer. It will ruin the screw and gouge the rotor, but it can work when nothing else does. Note that on a stock brake system (meaning OEM sized discs) the retainer screws are NOT necessary at all for the car to operate and brake.

yusukeg

For those who have used the Motive Power bleeder before, what is the easiest way to secure it to the brake reservoir? I've read of using a longer chain, others use some clamps; what have you guys found is the easiest way to attach it securely?

Snorlax

I plan on using the same set-up as the OP. AP1 pads, new rotors and ATE 200 Fluid. Keep us updated on your progress and comments.