Hi all,
I would like to add at least 1 degree of negative front camber to reduce wear on outer shoulders. Currently, my AP2 has Ohlin DFV, lowered about 1”, small fortune sway bar, J’s Racing S1 camber joints. I run TT in NASA with Hoosier 225/40/17 and I get a little rubbing on the inside fender wall but not much. With the S1 joints I can only get about 3.2 degrees camber.
I tried buying BC P1 RCA joints but they are discontinued. I’m debating going to Js S2 or Spoon joints. Hate to pay for the Spoon but they give more camber. Downside is no built in RCA like my S1 so I assume I’ll need to re-corner weight. Main concern with the S2 is will it give enough extra. They advertise 2-5 degrees with the S1 but I can’t get close to those numbers. Anyone use S1 and S2 and know how much the S2 increased available camber?
Thanks!

 

You are rubbing with over 3 degrees of camber and 225's up front? I and many are running 255s on 17x9's with +63mm offsets, lowered an inch and I do not rub at all -2.6 degrees of camber. My fenders are rolled but I cannot imagine rubbing with 225's even without rolled fender unless you have the wrong offset wheels or something like that. I also cannot imagine wanting to run a lot more than the amount of camber you have really. If you are wearing outside shoulders too much with -3.2 degrees, I would be curious of pressures you are running.

 

He's running 225 hoosier, which run super wide compared to a street tire.

He also stated that he's rubbing on the inside.

As far as additional camber, it's actually not that uncommon for track guys to run anywhere from -3.8 to 3.3 of camber up front (i'm running -3.3 up front and my tire wear tells me i should be running more). Most of the guys in the class that i compete in are running -3.5 or more up front.

For the OP
You can get more camber with offset bushings for sure. Keep your current lower offset ball joints and get the offset bushings to add in more camber when combined with your lower ball joints (no additional points).

https://baero.tech/s2000-suspension/...l-arm-bushings

These were specifically design for NASA TT guys so that they can avoid taking points for additional camber via offset ball joints.

 

Thanks for both of your replies! As Bullwings said those Hoosiers are at least as wide as 245 street tires (I should have mentioned that!). I thought about the offset bushings - would they pull the tire closer to the inner wheel well? I assumed it would and thought it might cause worse rubbing or get the tire into the brake cooling ducts.

 

Yes. It does pull the top of the wheel in-bound

What offset wheels are you running?

Unless you're running in STR and confined to only rolling fenders, but no pull, I'd recommend running a wheel with a +52 to +45 offset. That's the sweet spot for maximizing wheel well clearance without having to absolutely destroy your fenders. The +63 auto-x offset guys are limited by their ability to modify fenders.

Given that you're running a 225 hoosier, i'll assume that you're running in some sort of NASA TT class. In that case, you need your suspension to articulate and move quite a bit more for kerbing, bumps, and elevation changes. It's a lot easier to clear fenders via rolling and pulling than it is to clear your inner wheel well.

In short, ditch the high offset wheels if that's what you've got and go lower. You'll also have the added benefit of finding that wheels clear BBKs much easier - only one +63 wheel that I know will clear the stoptech ST40 BBK (TSW Nurburgring).

 

I’m running TSW Interlagos 17x7 with 63 offset, no spacers. I’m in NASA TT5. Thanks for the advice, gives me a lot to think about! I’ll check my older wheels to see if I have any with lower offset. Cheers

 

Whoops I meant 17x9 not 17x7.

 

Yup. ditch those wheels and roll your fenders.

I'm not sure if 225 hoosiers on a 9.5 wheel will fit in the required template for max tired width. If so, my recommendation goes to the wedsport SA-72R in 17x9.5 +47 or to Titan 7 in 17x9.5 +51 (these are forged for less than $2k - absolute bargain. no reason to buy volks other than brand name and looks).

https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/store/product/wedssport-sa-72r-wide-spec-wheel-17x95-5x1143-offset-47/

https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/store/product/titan-7-t-r10-wheel-17x95-5x1143-offset-51-satin-titanium/

If you need to get 9" wide wheels try the TC105X
https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...set-49-face-f/

All of these wheels have the added benefit of clearing BBKs, which are an absolute must.

If you need to go on a budget. Enkei makes decent 17x9 +45 options that have BBK clearance.

The TS-5 is a good option.

https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...100-offset-45/

This is also an option, but I'd rather get the WedSport TC105X

https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...set-45-silver/

Whatever you do - avoid the RPF-1. For some reason, it's popular, but also garbage for track use. They're light and cheap, but they're weak, brittle, and have no BBK clearance. I remember a track day where 15+ S2Ks showed up, a lot of them on RPF-1s. It was a TT competition day and everyone was pushing card and hitting kerbing hard. End of that day, there were 5 or 6 RPF-1s that had cracked, bent lips, etc. etc.

If you haven't seen it already, this is a good TT5 build thread to read through - national champ from the 2019 season.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/automoti...build-1178108/

he also did a vlog build of his second car.

 

Thanks again Bullwings!! I really appreciate the advice and insights. I have seen some of Samed's videos and build but not his second build, will check it out. Sorry for the delay responding, haven't checked the forum since we started vacation. Cheers