B serious

Bushings you need to clock for new ride heights:

Front:
UCA to chassis (2X)

LCA to shock

LCA to subframe

Rear:
LCA to subframe (2X). One at the alignment adjuster and the other behind the seats.

LCA to shock.

Toe arm to subframe

UCA to subframe (2X).

You have to do all of them even though you didn't loosen them to lower the car. The ride height changed. So you do need to loosen those bolts and tighten at ride height.

To answer your questions on camber...you're saying you cannot get straighter than -2 camber? The car has built in alignment adjusters. Are you sure the tech is turning the right adjuster for camber?

B serious

I think the stock rear camber setting is -1.5, isn't it? You probably don't want to run LESS than factory spec rear camber.

With a good (factory AP2) toe setting, I don't think you'll have excess wear issues from -2 deg camber in the back. It would be unusual.

wongs2k

Might as well buy all new bushings if it's gonna take that much work. As far as the rear camber, I'm not happy with it because I don't really tract the car that much, I guess I'll just drive it at -2 for now and swap L and R tires when they wear out. I'll eventually get LCA and toe arms.

B serious

?? but...if you bought new bushings, you'd need to clock them as well as install them. Idk what you mean.

Also...its like 10-20mins of work to properly clock them all once the car is already jacked up.

Anyway, if you really want to dial out camber, you'd need adjustable upper ball joints. That's the easiest and most effective way.

I doubt you'll see uneven wear at -2 deg with proper toe settings.

I don't think your alignment guy was turning the right adjuster, though. Your car isn't low. You should be able to get back to about -1.5 or so.

B serious

BTW, clocking bushings just means tightening them at ride height (or jacking up the LCA before tightening them).

I think you're assuming that you'd need to remove the bushings from the arms to clock them? If so...that's not what it means.

However, if you did not tighten them at your new ride height (clock them), they will tear. Once they tear...you will be stuck with needing new bushings, at which time, you'll be in for days and days of miserable and expensive work.