Swift Spec R on OEM AP2 Shock, Need help for suggestions.
#1
Swift Spec R on OEM AP2 Shock, Need help for suggestions.
Hello wonderful people,
This is my first posting thread, but I really need some help here.
sorry if this topic has been covered before... and excuse me with my poor English.
I just installed the swift spec r lowering spring on an OEM 06 shock.
(Yes, I'm on a budget, but just need a little drop of the car right now, so plzzzz don't suggest me to get a coilovers or something. Money already spent so can't regret now...)
I have noticed after installation my front is must higher than the rear drop. I did an approximate measure of drop height, the front dropped about 1.25 in, the rear dropped about 1.5 to 2 in (which it should both drop 1.25in front and rear)
I'm wondering if that is normal? Or it will be like some people told me that the springs need time to be settled and it will balance out.
And also I noticed too that the rear have even more negative camber after the installation of springs.
I'm planning on getting a new alignment soon, so I don't know if that will actually fix anything.
Thanks a lot for any suggestions.
There is a picture of the car after lowering springs, I know the car parked on an incline, but even when she was in the level ground it still has the difference. (and yes I have that hybrid badge as a joke)
This is my first posting thread, but I really need some help here.
sorry if this topic has been covered before... and excuse me with my poor English.
I just installed the swift spec r lowering spring on an OEM 06 shock.
(Yes, I'm on a budget, but just need a little drop of the car right now, so plzzzz don't suggest me to get a coilovers or something. Money already spent so can't regret now...)
I have noticed after installation my front is must higher than the rear drop. I did an approximate measure of drop height, the front dropped about 1.25 in, the rear dropped about 1.5 to 2 in (which it should both drop 1.25in front and rear)
I'm wondering if that is normal? Or it will be like some people told me that the springs need time to be settled and it will balance out.
And also I noticed too that the rear have even more negative camber after the installation of springs.
I'm planning on getting a new alignment soon, so I don't know if that will actually fix anything.
Thanks a lot for any suggestions.
There is a picture of the car after lowering springs, I know the car parked on an incline, but even when she was in the level ground it still has the difference. (and yes I have that hybrid badge as a joke)
#2
Give it a while before alignment ,rear camber correction will raise rear a tad
hope you clocked suspension bolts..
hope you clocked suspension bolts..
#4
Bolts need to be torqued with the suspension loaded, if you torque them with all the wheels in the air the bushings will soon be destroyed.
Normally you do this by jacking up one corner at a time.
Not familiar with those springs and what the drop should be, it should settle after a short drive though.
Normally you do this by jacking up one corner at a time.
Not familiar with those springs and what the drop should be, it should settle after a short drive though.
#5
To be clear, you need to LOOSEN the bolts before torquing them. Its not the tightening them to spec that is important, its tightening them from being loose, while suspension is loaded.
EVERY bolt with a rubber bushing needs to be loosened enough so it takes tension off the rubber bushing. Then jack that corner from under the lower control arm until it just lifts it off the jack stand (tbe car shoukd be level with all corners on jack stands). THEN you tighten the bolts,while tbe rubber bushings are loaded from the weight of the car.
Tightening the bolts locks the bushings into that 'starting point'. You will notice that when you jack car from under the suspension, the suspension moves. A lot. If you were to not do this clocking or do it wrong, you are locking the suspension into a much higher (or possibly lower if you over did it) starting point. That would make the car sit much higher (or possibly lower) than its supposed to. It woukd also seriously stretch the rubber bushings and make them fail quickly. Not cheap to replace.
EVERY bolt with a rubber bushing needs to be loosened enough so it takes tension off the rubber bushing. Then jack that corner from under the lower control arm until it just lifts it off the jack stand (tbe car shoukd be level with all corners on jack stands). THEN you tighten the bolts,while tbe rubber bushings are loaded from the weight of the car.
Tightening the bolts locks the bushings into that 'starting point'. You will notice that when you jack car from under the suspension, the suspension moves. A lot. If you were to not do this clocking or do it wrong, you are locking the suspension into a much higher (or possibly lower if you over did it) starting point. That would make the car sit much higher (or possibly lower) than its supposed to. It woukd also seriously stretch the rubber bushings and make them fail quickly. Not cheap to replace.
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