Alignment Problem
#1
Thread Starter
Alignment Problem
I have an 00' lowered on Swift Spec R springs and OEM shocks. I just installed front bump stops under the steering rack, and went to get new rear tires and an alignment.
The guy told me the rear camber is maxed out and along with the front caster.
Trying to get back to OEM.
Front Caster is at 7.6deg and 7.7deg, left and right respectively.
Rear Camber is at -1.7deg and -2.3deg, left and right respectively.
Been looking around online and don't know what to do next.
Any ideas?
The guy told me the rear camber is maxed out and along with the front caster.
Trying to get back to OEM.
Front Caster is at 7.6deg and 7.7deg, left and right respectively.
Rear Camber is at -1.7deg and -2.3deg, left and right respectively.
Been looking around online and don't know what to do next.
Any ideas?
#2
Once you lower the car the camber changes. You can't actually take it back to exactly where it was in OEM form nor would you need to as the suspension geometry has changed.
#4
If its a street car you wont notice a difference in tire wear or handling with those settings. Maybe a little more weight on the steering than a lower caster angle. Id send it just like that, long as the steering wheel is centered.
#5
OEM is in fact a very wide range...
Before you change anything, get a better handle on what you want for an alignment.
Minimizing toe is one of the more important aspects, more so than camber. I think your rear toe-in is excessive at 0.45°. Assume you have an AP1 based on the spec range shown? If you insist on keeping it within spec, I would ask for the *minimum* end of that range, or 0.32° total rear toe (0.16° per side). Personally I like to run less than that, 0.15° to 0.20° total rear toe-in.
Too much rear toe-in kills tire life and handling responsiveness, while also making the car more twitchy in a straight line over bumps/undulations and in traction-challenged conditions...
-2° rear camber is a decent place to be, and you're about there +/-. Could leave that alone or have them even it out to -2°, but IMO it's no big deal as it is...
Front camber is kinda low at -0.5°. Just fine for general driving around. But if you want more front grip, could have them max that out. Probably won't get more than ~1.5°.
Caster is personal-preference. Some are of the mind that more is always better. I prefer to run minimal caster myself, like 5.5°. Lighter effort at the wheel and less self-centering, which I love for street and track usage. If not sure you could aim for 6° to 6.5°. Personally I think 7.5° is excessive...
Before you change anything, get a better handle on what you want for an alignment.
Minimizing toe is one of the more important aspects, more so than camber. I think your rear toe-in is excessive at 0.45°. Assume you have an AP1 based on the spec range shown? If you insist on keeping it within spec, I would ask for the *minimum* end of that range, or 0.32° total rear toe (0.16° per side). Personally I like to run less than that, 0.15° to 0.20° total rear toe-in.
Too much rear toe-in kills tire life and handling responsiveness, while also making the car more twitchy in a straight line over bumps/undulations and in traction-challenged conditions...
-2° rear camber is a decent place to be, and you're about there +/-. Could leave that alone or have them even it out to -2°, but IMO it's no big deal as it is...
Front camber is kinda low at -0.5°. Just fine for general driving around. But if you want more front grip, could have them max that out. Probably won't get more than ~1.5°.
Caster is personal-preference. Some are of the mind that more is always better. I prefer to run minimal caster myself, like 5.5°. Lighter effort at the wheel and less self-centering, which I love for street and track usage. If not sure you could aim for 6° to 6.5°. Personally I think 7.5° is excessive...
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