About 6 years ago I had two 10 inch top of the line back then JL audio subs. I was never really impressed with them, and Dave describes it best "they are extremely bad subs with good marketing".. I would not go as far as saying they are extremely bad, but they left alot to be desired. Maybe things have changed since then. I have nothing to reference any sub to right now since I have been out of the sound system world for so long. But there is no way in hell I am paying $500 plus for just a sub. Dave you still have not told us why you dont like your sub anymore ? I am very curious. The infiniti dvq sounds very intriguing to me, tell me more about this one. I wish I did not have to spend any more money on a sub, but it looks like I will, what ever I go with, I know I am going to make a custom box though. So Infiniti, Alphasonik 10, what else. Jim told me he is moving up to a 12, I wonder which one though. Let me pm him.

 

Ok...let me make myself clearer. My term crap is not like everyone elses. When I mean crap, that means the MUCH better products are available for LESS money. This means the product at hand is crap.

Now...I love my Alphasonik. Ive never owned a better sub. It pouds HARD....I wish you all can hear it.....and has 600 more watts it can take without breaking a sweat.

The DVQ is still one of my favorite subs. However, its a sub that is extremely geared for SQ, thus may not suit people's tastes. Its not a high power sub, 300-500 is recommended wattage, but all SQ subs are limited to 500wrms.

For pounding with clarity, I would recommend either my sub, or the Eclipse.

Again, my term crap is purely economic. JL is OK, but their price, and the availability of better products for less money, by the law of economics, makes them crap.

 

Still no answer to why you said earlier you do not like your sub anymore, but thats ok. Tell me about the infiniti dvq, why do you say it wont suit people's tastes. In what respect are you referring to? When referring to a sq sub, what makes it differ from other subs in the same size range. I have exactly 500 watts rms that I can provide from my amp. I want a sub that is not as boomy as the solo i have now, but can still hit those deep notes everyonce in a while, while still being accurate and clear and still being able to be felt. I am going to look into the sub you are running now Dave. And also about dimensions for the 10 inch sub enclosure. I wonder if etronics will let me return my 8 inch, lol yeah i doubt it. In reality I want to have clear bass, that wont rattle every plastic and metal panel in my car, while still having a nice freq response to hit those lower notes, thats really what I am looking for.

 

I will actually have two boxes. When I need trunk space when I go on long drives to attend S2000 meets I will keep my Alphasonik PSW810 in the trunk. I'm very please with this subs overall performance.

The other sub enclosure will be about BLING and will be made of fiber glass. Currently, I have a JL 12W6v2 that I had bought a while ago. Depending on how it sounds will determine if I look at the Alphasonick PSW812.

pikkashoe - If you are going to go with a 10" I would recommend the PSW810 and you could keep your Van Gogh because you could use the rear two channels to power the 810. The Van Gogh will do 250X2 @ 2ohms. The 810 is a dual voice coil @ 2ohms. Which means you would wire the left rear channel to one voice coil and wire the right rear channel to the second voice coil and set the sub to stereo. This is how I have mine setup right now.

I think your current problem is because the Alphasonik 608 is dual voice coil but it's at 4ohms per coil vs. the 810 is dual voice coil @ 2ohms, and your amp is not 2ohm stable bridged.

 

I can send you another set of terminals to match the two already there - 5 minutes with a drill and you are all set. If you do not want to do it yourself - send it to me and I will do it for you at no charge.

 

In that case I would seriously recommend one or two 6.5" subs in the cabin. You have plenty of power, and the smaller subs give you flexibility of installation while providing all the low frequency you need.

The most important things to me were to have the sound in the car, vs. outside of the car, to minimize rattles, and to not lose any usable space anywhere in the car.

If you are into bling, you could go the route of some of the console subs in the "Installs" sticky thread. If you are into stealth and sound quality, you might try the approaches others have taken with the JL Audio 6w0 in the S2000.

You might have seen my post with a sub basically in my lap. It puts a smile on my face every time I drive! I have an Alpine 9833 and I have been able to easily blend the sub with the components in the doors and back panels. Check my thread for my install and links to several other in-cabin installs with photos.

My suggestion: put the sound where you are.

 

Where did I say I didnt like my sub???!! I think you have me confused with someone else. This is the best sub Ive ever bought.

 

Dave right here:

"Solobarics sound terrible, boomy as hell, iefficient, and blow like they were made of glass.

My sub is getting about 300-400, I dont like anymore. It is rated at 900RMS.

For a 12" (there is absolutely NO need for a 12" in an s2k) Id go for...."

Wlaurent dont worry about sending the terminals, I am going to go with a 10 inch sub, so no need to send them. I am going to PM you with a question by the way.

How much did you guys get the PSW810 for and from where, I looked last night on Etronics where i got my 8 but they dont have the PSW810. Sounds like I will go with this sub, as soon as I can sell my 8 inch and Wlaurent box. Time to start planning for custom box for tool well. Thanks for all your help guys with this.

Another quick question, with the Alphasonik 10, did you guys dynamat your trunks, just seeing if I should just order it now. You guys getting any rattling from the trunk or the converitible top well?

 

Interesting. I don't disagree per se, but most people I know tend to agree that the JLW7 is the reference to which all other subs are judged (note: I never said "best", I said "reference"). See the reviews on JL's site and a quick Google search for people drooling over W7s all day long. Subs, and stereos in general, are only as good as their installs. However, the best systems I've ever heard have all used JL Audio W7s. Maybe there's a whole big world better than that, but I haven't heard it. Pikka doesn't seem to want risks anymore. With a W7 you won't go wrong. Still, check it out in person before dropping the money on one.

That said, I'd take my two eD e8a's over JL subs any day, at any price. They're so much tighter, more efficient, lighter, and more musical than the smaller W3s I've heard. The W7 could be better or worse in this size, I don't know. The downside is that the e8a's are discontinued outside of a possible group buy.

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/index.html


Rattling - depends on volume. The threshold is decently high, but you'll hit it regularly with certain source music with any good setup. There is rattling in the trunk for sure (the top sheet metal is super thin for weight saving and crumple-zone). I think I occasionally here some rattle in the top well but it's not that common or noticable when it happens.

 

i've barely read this whole thread, but late and behind here -- if you're running an Alpine HU, be sure to dial the sub output level to +15. Alpine confusingly labels this as a + when really the range should be -15db to 0db and not 0 to +15db.

i've known several people (including myself) that this has been the source of problems...


also - "I have the sub wired in series at an 8 ohm load."

this is part of the problem... you've bought a less than optimal sub for your amp.