Hola

I'm about to place an order from Crutchfield and just want to make sure that I'm getting everything I need, and that I am buying components that will fit properly into my S2k. Please feel free to make recommendations to why I should choose another product over what I've listed.

-Speakers: Polk Audio DXi6500

-4 Chan amp for components and Sub: Alpine MRP-F300

-Head unit: Pioneer DEH-X6500BT *** I am looking for a receiver that can stream Pandora over USB from an Android phone (galaxy s3) and control Pandora from the head unit, but I don't think that capability exists.

-Receiver Wire harness

-EFX 8-gauge Amp Wiring kit

-Speaker Wiring Harness

-EFX 17foot RCA Patch Cable

-Stinger Pro 16 gauge speaker wire.

Any recommendations on a single coil 10" sub that would be good at 150watts rms for use in a sealed enclosure? I'm obviously not looking for heart-stopping bass, just want something to complement the components. I'm thinking of putting the sub in a zenclosure box in the tool well in the trunk.


Also, Can somebody post a link of the spacer ppl have been using for the door speaker installation?

Open to recommendations and I appreciate any help.

Thanks

 

I don't think I recommend that box in the picture.

I currently have a box in the tool well hole like you've pictured here, and my measured out to about .73cu ft. I've seen a few distinct variations on the way various builders form the box, one of which is less boxy underneath and more like a trapezoid. See the inside of this box and note how the seller claims a .95 cu ft. I think after sub woofer displacement, the .95 was a much better starting point than a .73, when speaking in terms of 10" subs. The box in your picture tends to lean a bit as well, so it isn't always exactly flush with the floor. Notice how the linked box on ebay actually covers the whole floor, like a faceplace or something? Looks much cleaner and if you lose the 3/4" along the floor, you can possibly cut out some slots for amps in there off to the sides.

I have an Oz Audio Matrix Elite Series 10" (likes ~700w rms) wired to 2ohms being pushed by an AQ1200D amp supposedly pushing ~800+w. If I could point out the main limitation of this setup, it's that the box is too small cu ft wise. Being in the trunk with no direct volume flow to the cabin is the other. Further, even though the trunk is largely dynamatted, there are still locations under the box which the MDF touches the car which need addressing.

 

Thanks for the link. That definitely looks pretty cool.

What do you recommend in terms of a sub?

 

I would consider a different and slightly more powerful amp if still an option. I assume you plan to run that 4 channel amp as 2 channels to the components and the other two channels bridged to a sub. That being said, you are pushing 75w rms to the polk speakers, which are rated at 100w rms. Already a bit short there, but will still sound very good. However, the other two channels bridged will only be pushing 150w rms. That's on the low side for a sub. Crutchfield has an article about how to match amps to subs here. The JL Audio subs are known for being of good brand, not just by name, and requiring low power. I would maybe consider the JL Audio 10WXv2. I've heard it in a sealed box at a stereo shop and it was quite capable considering how little power it was fed. I will add that I have a better JL Audio 10" in my jeep in a 1.3cu ft box (much bigger than the pic in this post) and it is pushed by an Alpine MRP M-500 alone. In the jeep, its a "hatch back" and hits very good. When I tested it in the S2000, closed in the trunk, it did good, but the sound barrier between a closed trunk and the cabin really deadened the sound. I can't believe the 150w JL Audio 10WXv2 will be sufficient. Have you considered the footwell sub? It's an 8" in a small box, but it is right in the cabin so you get more bang for your buck. Also, you can much more readily push an 8" sub with 150w rms.

Also, don't underestimate the loss of SPL from a sub being in the trunk. My sub and amp could decimate my trunk, and you can very much hear it in the cabin, but you can really tell it has been muffled. Meaning, you have to really compensate for the barrier.

$150: Speakers: Polk Audio DXi6500
$125: 4 Chan amp for components and Sub: Alpine MRP-F300
$150: Head unit: Pioneer DEH-X6500BT
$12: Receiver Wire harness
$50-100: EFX 8-gauge Amp Wiring kit/Speaker Wiring Harness/EFX 17foot RCA Patch Cable/Stinger Pro 16 gauge speaker wire
----------------------
Is your budget about $600?

 

I don't have a set budget... I just want to make sure the system sounds balanced and clean (no excessive rattling). So I'm not exactly looking to blast a sub in the trunk and waste money on something that may be competition grade but sounds like shit from the rattling, or overpowers the highs and mids.

I guess I'll have top look into the foot well sub option... Do you have a link?

I'm not connected to the amp, that's just what was recommended by someone else. If you have a recommendation for an amp I'd love to hear it.

Thanks for the input.

 

I'm using these adapters for the door speakers http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Speaker-Ad...6528cc&vxp=mtr

I'm also using the box in the picture with a 12" sub and it sounds nice, the bass hits very hard I was really surprised. I think the box is .85cu ft, just match it with a sub recommended for that size box.

 

Just ordered the spacers and this box:http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-S2000-C...item3cbb39ffb2

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

i have the same box as below and it does indeed lean to the left.