I finally found a custom installer who seems to be creative and technical enough to give me installation options that I feel will minimize the impact on the stock appearance of the car, as well as, provide me with a listening experience at higher speeds with the top down, especially for the mid and low range sound.

The problem that I've been struggling with is that every time I hear subs mounted in the trunk (usually in the well), they sound great when you're stopped or going under 50 mph. Above that, the sound is deminished, until about 80 mph, where its bearly disernable. So, mounted in the trunk is great for terrorizing neighborhoods, but for an audiophile who actually enjoys the full range of sound, its not a great option.

I'm writing this to see if there is any interest in duplicating the subwoofer installation (expensive for a one-off) so that we can offset the cost by making multiple boxes from the same cast. Additionally, I'd like to see if anyone is interested in the other installation components, which include flush mounted kick plates for 4" speakers and post mounted tweeter covers that do not protrude from the post. (doesn't work with all tweeters - mainly MB Quart Components)

Here is the proposal for installation of the subwoofer:

It will be a cast insulated box that fits inside of the spare tire well and is ported into the cab where the air vents are behind the passenger seat. The box is designed to hold 2-8" subwoofers (probably JBL) with box subs on an appropriate axis mount to ensure that the porting produces the maximum response in the cab. The only modification (other than loosing your spare - but that's what fix-a-flat and roadside assistance is for) is replacement of the vent behind the passenger seat with a grill cover to ensure that the panel does not vibrate. The box, again, is a cast box that fits the space of the spare without protruding into the trunk space (so you actually get a little more space in the trunk), that would allow you to cover the area for a better appearance. This isn't some cheap wooden box.

The other installation options include a kick plate box that is flush with the stock kick plate (inside the cab - not in the door) that allows you to install 4" speakers for mid vocal tones, without radically modifying the appearance (just a grill cover). If you're having difficulty visualizing where this is, sit in your car, pull your left leg back from the foot rest about 8 inches and move it to the left - right there. ;-) He is also building a cover for the windshield posts to install tweeters that are near flush with the post (less than 1/8" protrusion).

The beauty of the entire installation is that it provides maximum sound range that can be heard at higher speeds with the top down, doesn't obviously modify the appearance of the interior and weighs about 5 lbs less than the weight of your removed spare tire and tool kit.

I'll have pictures made of the installation as it progresses; however, what I would like to see in response to this is how many people would be interested in purchasing the subwoofer or other speaker installation kits to see if some of the costs can be deferred. The boxes as one-offs are not cheap ($650 for the subwoofer box alone), but I think that by making more than one, the price of the box and get down to the $300 range.

If you're interested in the rest of the installation, which includes wiring a remote to my dash controls, I'll follow-up with more information - in the meantime, let me know if you're interested in the box.

 

Your subwoofer design is very similar to that of a highly-experienced fabricator friend of mine... he suggested a tire well band-pass (two chambered: one sealed and one ported) enclosure where the tuned ports empty into the passenger compartment.

I have experimented with numerous sealed fiberglass enclosures located in the spare tire well which fire into a "vented" roof well. Since the sound comes from right over your shoulder, it is quite good and clear. My only dissatisfaction is with my sealed enclosure volume. At exactly 0.5ft^3, it provides stellar low volume output but has too small of an internal volume for high volume play.

So, to summarize: I would absolutely be interested in a pre-fabricated enclosure for $300... considering I spend that much in materials every time I fabricate a "trial" enclosure... plus, I'm sure breathing the acrylates and styrenes of my resins is doing nothing to lengthen my life

I do think, however, that this topic and thread should be moved to the "Electronics" formum so it won't quickly go away...

 

Steve,
Did you not hear my car? You need to check mine out, I have no complaints with my system...my bass hits hard at any speed - even with top down.

 

Hehe, or "will be"...not trying to dissuade you, but your installer may be have a stronger sense of creativity than technicality.

Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see an effective sub solution for the S2000, and I also like the idea of keeping the interior stock-looking. I like the idea of the sub's port firing through the rear panel, since it would still work with the top down, but there's quite a bit of metal behind the panel. You're going to have a hard time getting a tuned port of appropriate diameter through there without hacking things up. Port tuning characteristics change with the speaker as well so you may as well go with a sealed enclosure, in case any potential customers don't want to use JBL.

Also, there isn't really any depth behind the kick panels, so you're either going to need to intrude into the foot space, or hack up the metal behind. Now your installer may be a god, but I talked with one of the best installers here in San Diego who had actually already done exactly what you're talking about and ended up not being very happy with it (I appreciated his honesty). You don't want to end up somebody's guinea pig is all I'm saying...

JL Audio is really lagging on their stealthbox, so with the sub box you've got a shot at a fresh market here. My suggestion is a fiberglass box similar to what Shaner built, housing an 10" or up to 2 8's of the customer's choosing, and that the box be provided with a template for "venting" the top's well. And some sort of grill cover/cloth too so it all looks stock.

Another member here, Bing0, is doing the exact same thing with a fiberglass trunk well enclosure (took a negative mold and is selling pre-fab boxes with subs) - I know of several members who bought this box (myself included). There's more SPL potential there because of the larger box volume, but from an audiophile perspective a tight pair of 8's right behind you is hard to beat.

Best of luck and let us all know how it works out!

-Jason

stereo

 

what do people have against Q-logic boxes? they're $60 (for the box) and can be placed in the tool bay area without any harnessing.

 

Lucid,

There's nothing wrong with Q-Logic boxes... they are super-cheap quick solutions. I just like to put groceries or a small bag where you put your Q-Logic box. Plus, I want my sub as close to the passenger compartment as possible...

People are just exploring other options. My captivation with car audio is the major challenge with installation... I sometimes go out of my way for a super-unique installation that is very technical and difficult... just for the "sport" of it...

Different strokes for different folkes: Don't take it personally.

 

Wes: I did get a look at your installation, as a matter of fact this guy was your installer's boss at Mobile One and was familiar with your car. It took us a while to come up with your name, but he knew everything about your install. The problem with subs in the tool well is that I actually need to use my trunk.

JZR: No metal cutting here. Behind the right seat is enough room for the port. They're going to build a cast of the space to determine how much space is there and whether a 10" or 2 - 8" subs will fit. I was concerned about not enough space also, but he explained how they analyze the space and then set the subs on a particular axis to drive the sound to the port. As far as modifying the interior of the car - I'm really not the concerned about it, as long as its 1) well done astetically (hidden) and 2) effective. I don't think that there is much that you can do with the S2K without modifying it somewhat and a few concelled or flush speaker panels are better than the alternative, which is a stock system that you can't hear over idle. ;-)

This guy has worked with six S2K's, including some local DJ on the morning buzz - who apparently spent about $8K getting his done for shows. He's also one of those guys like a good programmer - he's more interested in the challenge of perfection than selling me something - or he's damn cleaver, but I've managed enough of this personality type in the past to spot them right away.