But specs do not lie if you know what to look for and how to interpret them. I agree with buy with your ears, but only listen to the amplifiers that meet the specs you are looking for or your search will never end and you will become buried in a sea of amplifiers and confusion.

The question is: is the Orion really a lower powered amp if it's specs are 25W@0.01% THD while the Kenwood is 100W @ 0.1% THD. The real question is how many watts is the Orion putting out at 0.1% THD or what the wattage for the Kenwood is when its THD is only 0.01%. Have to make sure you are comparing apples to apples...and your right the manufacturers do not make it easy for you.

BTW, all the example and numbers above are strickly made up, they do not represent Orion or Kenwood amps...

 

"I have an 88120Ti Eclipse sub that is powered correctly. I haven't removed anything from the rear besides the rattling long piece that stands vertically in the convertible base well. With the top down and on the freeway, I am not disappointed. You need to power your JL's right. You have an S2000 so why do you use cheap stuff? Get it done right."

hey project,
Im guessing you put you titanium in a custom enclosure... if you did can you post some pics?
Thanks,
JOn

 

Another minor but important point is what voltage are the amps rated at? Many companies rate at 14.4 volts, which you will probably only get with no other accesories running, IE A/C, lights, etc. On the other hand, I have a JBL amp that is rated at 12 volts, so almost all of the time, I am feeding it closer to 14...thus I get more power. Also, many of the quality amp makers underrate their amps...It is well known that some of the JBL class D amps are underrated by as much as almost 25%! The 600.1 is rated at 600 watts at 12 volts, and is known to put out about 730 watts at around 14 volts!! Not all amps are created equally.

 

There is NO way he has his subs wired for .75 ohms. His amp is bridged, most amps are only stable down to 4 ohms bridged. His amp wouldn't last 5 secs.

 

Could you put a sub in the cabin? That would definately help. If not, direct those subs towards the cabin and put as many watts to it as it can take.

 

I have thought about getting a custom encloser for the passenger foot well, but I have heard that ony an 8" sub will work due to the space constraints...

 

3 best things you can do to get more base into the cabin.....no matter if roof is up or down....regardless of you speakers outputs:
1. Remove the panel below the roof storage area
2. Take the spare whheel out ( when you drive locally)
3. Take the panel behind the spare wheel.
You can tell the difference....BIG different!!!!
I have an Alpine 12" and this is exactly what I did.