Hello:

It's been since the 90's that I dabbled in car audio. So, hang in there with me, please. My 2000, Honda S2K stock system is sad. So sad, I can't hear it on the highway hardly at all. It's all original at this point.

I'd like to replace the headunit with something that gives me an AUX input on the deck (not in back) and the ability to play MP3's. I'd also like to be able to retain the use of the controls on the dash -- I seem to remember a vendor that sold a part that would allow this, but only on certain head units -- right? I-pod connection is not required. I think I want RCA outputs (at least two -- one to power fronts and one for a sub), but please read on.

Stock speaker size is 6.5" and there are only two speakers in the car. I'd like to replace those with at least 2-way speakers; I'm considering components, though. Finally, I am also considering a 10-12" sub for the trunk in a custom wheel well, sealed, enclosure.

I am not looking to shake the neighbors awake with this system. I am not going to enter it in competitions, etc, either. My goal is this: Have something that is clear, loud enough to be heard on the highway (and then some) and have some decent punch to it -- perhaps enough to shake the mirrors -- i.e. I want to feel it at least a bit.

I'm toying with trying a head unit and some good 6.5" components and seeing how that works - I would think this would achieve the goal of being clear and lound enough to hear, but I doubt it would "shake" anything. Is there a head unit I can buy that will power a set of components without a dedicated amp? I want to start here and see how it sounds. If it's good, I'm done. If not, I'll take the outputs on the back of the headunit and add power to the components and possibly a sub then, too.

Assuming I want an amp, can I get away with a 3-channel amplifier that would drive 20-60 watts RMS to the components and then something like 2-300 RMS to the sub? Again, hang in there with me -- it's been a while since I played with this stuff.

I am not very brand loyal (anymore) to any one company, so suggestions are wide open. Price is a concern as I do not want to break the bank with this -- "bang for the buck" should be in your mind as you make suggestions.


Thanks in advance for your help!
Shumax

 

if you want to keep your controls on the right, the best route is to find an alpine headunit and get a modifry dci, i believe it has more functionality with the alpine HUs...

a HU with 4x50w internal amplifier and a good set of speakers (i like the infiniti kappas) will be a HUGE improvement over what's factory...but you're right, will not provide any shaking bass...

i'd do the HU and speakers first, and then go from there....

as far as a 3-channel amp, i'd nix that idea. it'd be better to get a 4-channel bridgeable amp, use 2 channels for the speakers and bridge the other 2 for the sub

 

most headunits only provide 16 to 18 Watts RMS per channel, and that is not enought for most components.

I suggest that you spend the money and cry once, as it is often cheaper this way than adding things after things.

Let us know what kind of music you typically listen to and how much you are willing to spend, that way we can know what we should suggest.

 

Thanks for the feedback so far. I listen to 80's and 90's music, a bit of hip hop from the current era, some country, etc. No rock or heavy metal, really.

I forgot about the idea of a 4 channel and bridging two of them. If I do that, it take a 4-ohm load down to 2ohms, so I need an amp stable down to two ohm's, right? Also, what about the SUB -- does it need to then be able to run at 2 ohm's? I can't remember this part. Sorry.

Budget? Always tough to say b/c I don't want crap, but I also don't want to break the bank. I found a nice Alpine HU and Boston Accoustics 2-way 6.5" speakers from Crutchfield for $280, delivered. Seemed reasonable to me considering they give me all the mounting hardware, cables, etc. The Modifry unit is then another $90.

Thanks again for the suggestions -- please keep them coming!
Shumax

 

Here is what I am looking at:

Alpine iDA-X303 HU. $199, including harness and installation kit.

Boston Acoustics S65RC 6.5" 2-way speakers. $89

Alpine KCE-236B Aux-in Adapter - plan to use this to plug into the back of the HU and then run it to my XM Shyfi 2 unit. I'm going to mount that in the car and transport the actual unit b/t my daily driver and the S2000. $14

I also have to buy a custom wiring harness from Modifry to keep the dash audio controls. $90.

I have some "secondskin audio" sound dampening material I plan to apply around the area of the speakers -- perhaps the entire door if I have enough.



So, that's where I plan to start. I'd still like ideas for a good four channel amp that I could use to run the 6.5" speakers and then bridge to run something like the 10" JL audio premade box fo the spare tire well. A 10W3 sub, likely.

Any input on that?


Thanks again!
Shumax

 

Thanks for the suggestions! I've decided against components -- I also don't want to be "altering" the car for the magnet; though, more bass does sound good! :>)

 

If you don't want to modify the cars speaker baskets you will have to go

with a 5 1/4 front coaxle spkr . You will not be happy with the sound.

Spend the money buy spkr rings and go with 6 1/2's. Also spend the

money on some Dynamat at least a small spkr kit. Good Luck.

 

[QUOTE=shumax,Apr 10 2009, 06:16 PM]Alpine iDA-X303 HU.

 

Check this out...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=688698

Small, keeps nearly all the trunk space, you can store your flat tire still, sounds awesome. I can hear my stereo loud and clear at highway speeds.

The deck even has aux in....but if you got an ipod, get the ipod hook-up

 

So, here's the final tally of what I purchased:

JL Audio 10W3v3-4
Monster Cable MPC S302 2C 15M of 12AWG speaker wire
Polk Audio db651s 6.5" speakers
StreetWires PSKA4R 4AWG AMP kit.
JL Audio G4500 Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate CPT-500 RF Twister 16.4' / 5.0 Meter. Two sets of RCA cables.
StreetWires Spade Terminals for 12AWG (4) using to connect speaker cable to Polk Door speakers.
Alpine CDE-102 Receiver
S&G Tool Aid 87650 Door Trim and Panel Removal Tool
DCI IR harness and the PNP harness. Also included the volume control feature based on your speed.
Apline KCE-236B Full Speed Aux-in adapter


Sub box is something I'm still working on, but hope to have that done this week. Amp rack is done and being shipped - MANY thanks to PAS2KNut. I paid for it this morning, he built it today and it will ship tomorrow -- that's AWESOME service! Thanks, Jim!


One issue that is still there -- the receiver is on back order. I think I'm going to go ahead and wire the amp and door speakers and just not connect the power to the battery (for the amp), or the RCA's (obvioulsy) to the HU. I don't drive the car right now -- still in storage, so I'm not real worried about it. Guess I just won't be able to test it until the receiver actually shows up.

Any words of wisdom on the install? I know to run the power and remote wires down one side of the car and then the RCA's & speaker wire down the other. I think that the RCA's & speaker wires will likely come down the middle of the car by the armrest. That should be enough distance from the power cable, right?

Thanks again!