Help, Option Connectors for accessory power??? (Modifry?)
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Los Angeles
Been searching through old posts/library articles for info on power sources underdash, and found some conflicting info on tapping into power using the optional connectors in the underdash fuse box (i.e. which are switched w/ ignition vs. always on vs. w/ lights).
Here's an excerpt from the Hard Wiring Radar Detector article:
Notice it states that the IGNITION SWITCHED power tap is the bottom-most connector.
On the other hand, here's an excerpt from one of Modifry's posts:
Here, Modifry states that the top-most not the bottom-most connector is IGNITION SWITCHED. (My Helm's manual also says fuse #42 is 40A not 50A, but that's a minor detail
).
Does anyone have a confirmation on this?? I'm inclined to believe Modifry's explanation b/c he's the master of all things electronic (unless he was momentarily dyslexic and transposed "C" and "E"!). I also wonder how Modifry figured out which fuse each connector are wired through w/o pulling each fuse to test, the Helm's manual doesn't specify any of that!
EDIT: Hmm, just found another post showing the bottom-most connector as the one which is ignition switched. Perhaps Modifry did transpose the letters???
Yes, I know I could confirm this by contorting myself w/ a multimeter into the footwell, but I thought someone might know the answer.
TIA
Here's an excerpt from the Hard Wiring Radar Detector article:
...and now you can connect it to the "accessory" tap on the fuse box. Note where it is in the picture, on the left hand side of the fuse box- it's the third "hole" down from the top. This is the one switched with the ignition (alternatively one is for the lights, and the other for constant power). Be sure to slide the connector over the spade (male) contact in the hole.
Notice it states that the IGNITION SWITCHED power tap is the bottom-most connector.
On the other hand, here's an excerpt from one of Modifry's posts:
Are you guys aware of the 'Option' connectors available on the under-dash fuseblock? Honda conveniently left us a place to connect add-on stuff right on the fuseblock.
Option Connector C - hot when the parking lights are on, through fuse 23, 10 amps
Option Connector D - hot always, through fuse 42, 50 amps
Option Connector E - hot when ignition on (and not cranking) through fuse 42, 50 amps.
All 3 of these connectors are recessed male 1/4" quick-connects, and yes, you should use an in-line fuse, especially when connecting to D or E.
Option Connector C - hot when the parking lights are on, through fuse 23, 10 amps
Option Connector D - hot always, through fuse 42, 50 amps
Option Connector E - hot when ignition on (and not cranking) through fuse 42, 50 amps.
All 3 of these connectors are recessed male 1/4" quick-connects, and yes, you should use an in-line fuse, especially when connecting to D or E.
Here, Modifry states that the top-most not the bottom-most connector is IGNITION SWITCHED. (My Helm's manual also says fuse #42 is 40A not 50A, but that's a minor detail
).Does anyone have a confirmation on this?? I'm inclined to believe Modifry's explanation b/c he's the master of all things electronic (unless he was momentarily dyslexic and transposed "C" and "E"!). I also wonder how Modifry figured out which fuse each connector are wired through w/o pulling each fuse to test, the Helm's manual doesn't specify any of that!
EDIT: Hmm, just found another post showing the bottom-most connector as the one which is ignition switched. Perhaps Modifry did transpose the letters???
Yes, I know I could confirm this by contorting myself w/ a multimeter into the footwell, but I thought someone might know the answer.
TIA
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From: Indian Land SC
[QUOTE]Originally posted by SSK
[B] I'm inclined to believe Modifry's explanation b/c he's the master of all things electronic (unless he was momentarily dyslexic and transposed "C" and "E"!).
[B] I'm inclined to believe Modifry's explanation b/c he's the master of all things electronic (unless he was momentarily dyslexic and transposed "C" and "E"!).
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 16
From: Burbs of Philly, PA
I was doing a search on this exact topic and just wanted to resolve this thread, see link below.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/441...ck-under-dash/
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/441...ck-under-dash/
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,359
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From: Houston, TX
I used this guide. Worked for hard wiring my V1 to ignition switched on my AP2.
http://www.s2000.org/mods/radar/
A couple of your linked photos aren't working so I can't tell if you're linking to the same guide or not.
http://www.s2000.org/mods/radar/
A couple of your linked photos aren't working so I can't tell if you're linking to the same guide or not.
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 16
From: Burbs of Philly, PA
I used this guide. Worked for hard wiring my V1 to ignition switched on my AP2.
http://www.s2000.org/mods/radar/
A couple of your linked photos aren't working so I can't tell if you're linking to the same guide or not.
http://www.s2000.org/mods/radar/
A couple of your linked photos aren't working so I can't tell if you're linking to the same guide or not.
I am trying to run 4 different gauges (this requires 4 different power wires to power the sensor modules because they are PLX gauges) and my GPS unit of off this Option Connector. First I wanted to make sure that the stock wiring going to this connector would be sufficient to power all of my above stated devices and where the fuse was going to this connector.
I decided to run a 30 amp inline fuse to a 6 panel fuse block and then from there to all of my devices, so that I don't have a multitude of inline fuses coming off of that option connector and also I have room for future expansion if needed.
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Jul 27, 2013 06:09 PM