I looked into these, but I wasn't sure if the tweeter covers could be removed. Is it easy to pry them off? The tweeters CVJoints look a lot less messy to mess with (no pun intended).

Did you only Dynamat the door? Does it make any difference when the roof it down or only when it's up?

 

I saw a lot of the work JT does since he hosts the audio meets a lot. It is very good and he's a nice guy to deal with: http://jtaudioacc.com/

A subwoofer doesn't just bring in SPL it also fills in the lows. Not sure what you mean by the subwoofer. Mine aren't "enclosed" in the sense of being sealed or ported but you have to separate the front and rear waves. The trunk is my enclosure. You can do a pure enclosure less sub system but not in a car, unless you vent the trunk to the atmosphere heavily, not really an option. Rattles depend on install quality.

 

I got two quotes to install the speakers + wiring, head unit, remote control (the ones by the steering wheel), amp, sub and dynamat for both front doors for $350 and $250... It's a pretty big difference... The $250 was from someone who worked on my friend's car, and the other was from someone who worked on mine before. Sometimes I'm worried about taking the cheaper route - what would be the market price for something like this?

 

The tweeter covers slid right off, and the tweeters fit right into the spot where the OEM ones resided.. EASY replacement.

Yes, I only Dynamatted the doors, and it makes a big diff. all the time. The Polks were generating enough bass to rattle the doors annoyingly, and the Dynamat took care of that.

 

Use hushmat when you dampen your doors. It is a upgrade over Dyna, just my opinion as I dont work for either company but to 12v for a living. OEM wires will be fine for what you are doing.