mikes2k

NO Question the factory speakers are the week link! I couldnt belive when I saw the old speakers next to the Dynaudios I had installed! What a joke!

Honda you call that a magnet?


https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=19475

Bud Murphy

Thanks for everyone's input on my audio dilemma. I'm thinking of purchasing JL Audio 6 1/2 rounds with separate tweeters and 4" rounds for the rear.

Any input as to this probable selection regarding quality and ease of installation? (Not that I'm going to have the speakers installed, just curious as to what my "stereo guy" is going to have to do.........I doubt I'll be able to watch as he takes apart my S.)

bbsilver

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bud Murphy
[B]Thanks for everyone's input on my audio dilemma.

modifry

One more opinion (we all got 'em).

The stock speakers (like MANY stock sound systems and lots of home speakers for that matter) have lots of mid-bass, very little low-bass, average mid-range and trailing-off highs. They do this for several reasons.

1. It's cheaper, both to make the speakers and the head unit. Speakers with good low-bass are going to be less efficient than ones that trade low-bass for mid-bass. Therefore the more efficient speakers will sound louder with a low-power head unit.
2. They make a good initial impression. After a quick listen (all you get in a showroom or stereo store) the mid-bass peak makes the speakers sound "bass-ier" than they really are.

The stock speakers give the impression of good bass, but some of us tire of this "boomy" sound and opt to spend the money and get more low bass. The problem is that the "better" speakers are less efficient and make the extra amp a necessity.

Having built many home speaker systems over the last 30 years, I have learned from experience that the speakers are the most vital link in reproducing good sound; they are "where the rubber meets the road" so to speak.

I put good 6.5 inch woofers in the doors, requiring removal of the basket and making a 3/4" spacer ring out of hardwood to keep the really big and deep magnets from hitting the window glass. I lined the door sheet metal with Dynamat, and added a 50 WPC amp. One with 50 real watts, not hype watts. It was a lot of work, but worth it.

bduel

The stock stereo is an insult to that car. I had a pair of Boston Pro component speakers installed with the coaxial bridge, in the stock location. The crossovers are small and fit in the doors. They're hooked up to an Eclipse 2x40 watt amp behind the passenger seat, with line-level inputs from the existing head unit. It looks stock, and is plenty of power. I didn't want to mess around with custom enclosures or cutting holes to port a sub from the trunk.

MacGyver

Bud,

See my webpage for my install of the 1631's and where to purchase/how to install a PAC SWI-3 to keep the dash controls.

Bud Murphy

Is the SWI-3 the more reliable/cleaner option as opposed to "Pinky's Mod"?? I know the SWI-3 is about 1/3 the cost, but I'd be willing to pay for the Mod if it's a better option.

MacGyver

Pinky's mod IS the SWI-3 with the sticker removed and pre-attached to your stereo's wiring harness. If you buy it separately, you have to attach it yourself, but considering it's only 3 wires for the PAC and a few more for the relay, I think anyone who has installed a stereo before can handle it.