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Want to make changes. What should I do?

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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 07:38 AM
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natedoggs2k's Avatar
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From: Gainesville
Default Want to make changes. What should I do?

Okay, as many of you know, I had a custom stereo installed but was not happy with the amp choice, so I had that changed. Here's my current set up:

1) Clarion 745
2) Focal 165KPs and additional Focal tweeters
3) Audison LRx2.250 (mids/highs)
4) MMATS 700.1 (sub)
5) TREO 10" SS sub in custom fiberglass enclosure in tool well.

The install is awesome, and the clarity is there. Currently, my Audison amp is mounted in the left corner of the trunk and the MMATs is above the gas tank. I decided to take out my spare tire, so I'm going to have a custom amp rack made so both amps can be hidden in that area, freeing up more trunk space and moving the amp away from the gas tank (as it's not bolted or secured in that area. The foam and small space is holding the amp in place - and I'm reluctant to do that).

Here's what I'm thinking. Although my sub sounds good, and I'm pushing plenty of power, it still vibrates and rattles the car. Also, I'm pushing so much power that I need a cap or something because all my lights "flicker" at night when the volume is up and the bass hits.

I'm thinking of having a sub (8") put inside the cabin of the S2K, thus freeing up my tool well and getting rid of the excessive rattling and vibration while allowing all the bass to be inside the car.

Do you think this would be a good idea? I saw Jim's S2K photos showing how he put an 8" sub in the footwell of the passenger side, and that is something I was thinking of doing. Also, if I did this, I wouldn't need as much power going to the sub, so I could get a smaller amp and not have to add a cap since I wouldn't be pushing as much as I am now.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:11 AM
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natedoggs2k's Avatar
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It seems as though most people go with a sub in the tool well rather than doing a sub inside the cabin. I know the sub in the tool well is supposed to give more bass and more volume, but couldn't this be achieved in the cabin with a good 8" sub? I've come to the conclusion that the best sound would be achieved if the sub was in the car rather than the trunk.

Maybe it's just my sub and enclosure, as I'm not getting quite the bass I want (tight and accurate), even though it's loud and goes "boom" while rattling the hell out of my trunk and wing. I'm sure some of it could be taken care of with some dynomat, but I'm trying to avoid adding too much extra weight to the car.

I've taken the spare out and will have the amps put on a rack in that area, but I'm still unsure of my sub choice/decision.

Also, I have more than enough power, so I'm thinking that maybe if I did a sub in my cabin, I could get a smaller amp to run the sub, and avoid needing a cap. Right now, I'm pushing a bit too much power without the cap and it's causing my lights to flicker when the bass hits. So it's time to make a few revisions to get what I want from my sub.

My mids and highs are great! Everything else is great! It's just the sub that I have issues with. It does give pretty accurate bass with some CD's, but not as much as I'd like with most music. Ideas?
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