^ Thats what I'm talking about.. seems fine with a small amp on the cross brace but with my mono block the amp seems to drain out. I can see the power light dim when the bass hits. I have a 4ga power & ground.

 

how many watts? mine doesn't dim, but i have 1 gauge wire and "cleaned" the area before attaching it to the rear brace bolt

 

for clarification regarding dimming: if i am not moving in the car and i have the music turned up (like at sonic, trying to holla at some 18 year olds [jk]), then the dash lights do flicker

 

I'm running 1/0 power and ground off a yellow top battery split to 2x 4ga. Approx 800W draw, no lights dim with the volume all the way up... Amps are individually grounded to the rear crossbeam.

And it's not just about power draw. Actually, it has more to do with avoiding ground loops (which are not good for speakers - really high freq - or amps). Ground loops occur because a bad ground connection (or RCA connection, etc) acts as a resistor. This resistance in the ground/power loop presents a voltage drop. As voltage is dropped there, it creates a signal that is drawn through the amp's power side where it is "added" to the audio signal and then played out through your speakers.

Remember, power flows from negative to positive. Trust me, it does - remember, power flow is electron flow...Electrons are negative...they move TOWARDS the positive terminal. Signal flow, however, is what we are used to following and flows from positive to negative (when an electron moves from one copper atom to the next, it leaves behind a "hole" in the previous copper atom. That "hole" then invites the next atom's electron to jump to it and creates the signal path.)

 

u actually have the grounds seperate on urs, or u say ur grounds are seperate but meet at the one ground point.
The reason im saying is i always had them on the same point, and didn't have a problem "yet" so u saying u have a possibility to get ground loop from doing that.

 

Ahh. Audio and ground loops. How forgetful of me.

 

The light on the amp dims. & its a MTX mono block 800rms watt. Anyhow just blew my Type R alpine 12. Coils caught on fire. Smoked up & I had to pull over in the hwy. Looked like my car was on FIRE! SMoke everywhere.

 

yea there is more wrong with your set up than just the spot you chose as a ground...

 

You should replace that Type R with a Stereo Integrity Mag v4. 1000WRms capable (really only needs 500W). 1 cu ft volume requirement. And I guarantee it sounds better and hits harder than your Type R used to





I use separate ground points for both amps in my S, and the 4 amps in my truck have 3 separate ground points (because of the way the amp rack is designed, it was easier to ground them this way).

Think about what your bolts are going into - the chassis/sheetmetal. That sheetmetal acts as one huge conductor. Whether you use a single ground point for all your amplifiers or multiple ground points - it shouldn't make any difference as long as the ground points are electrically < 3 ohms from the battery/each other.