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Do I simply reconnect the 2 wires back to the OEM harness? I'm not sure what the 2 blue wires are for and where they go. Do I need the blue wires?
the green/red and yellow/blue wires are the dash controls and mute button wires respectively. Yes, just reattach where the DPO cut them. At least he left you long enough stubs!
Hard to tell in the jumble of wires, but the blue wires may have been for rear speakers or a sub - even though the OEM radio had rear speaker outputs, there are no matching wires in the AP1 blue connectors, so the easy solution was to run wires from the aftermarket stereo connector back to any rear speakers
Last edited by oth; Feb 26, 2026 at 09:03 AM.
Reason: typo
Just wanted to give back to the S2K community with a summary on how to add a Power Acoustik CP-71WA, Scosche HA08B harness ($7.50), external microphone ($5), and fully functional steering wheel controls including MUTE via a PAC SWI-RC-1 ($45 - $50). This is cheaper than using a Modifry harness ($25) and DCI ($90), but requires soldering. DO NOT use the Axxess ASWC-1 ($68) that you see in some YouTube videos because it costs more and the MUTE button won't work. Note that the CP-71WA is the same as the CP-71W. The only difference is that the WA has the latest firmware with wireless Android Auto, which you can download from Power Acoustik and update the firmware of the W version.
First step is to modify the Scosche harness that doesn't have steering wheel control wires. Since most 2000-2005 S2K's don't have rear speakers (unless you have a dealer accessory headrest speakers), you can relocate the purple and purple/black wires to the slots shown below. If you have a 2006+ S2000, you'll need a second Scosche harness to "donate" two wires/pins for the steering wheel control wires or you can use Posi-Taps to tap into the factory wires (I don't like tapping into factory wiring though).
To relocate the wires, I used a jewelers screwdriver and stabbed it into the harness until the wire and pin come loose and you can pull it out and then reinsert into the correct pin holes.
Here's the completed harness.
For the PAC SWI-RC-1, be sure to use the Kenwood settings shown below because the Power Acoustik settings DO NOT WORK.
The SWI-RC-1 comes with 2 harnesses, but you'll only solder 4 wires (red, black, white, and purple) on the harness shown below.
Solder or crimp (solder recommended) the wires as shown in the 2 photos below.
And you're done with the harness! Here's how everything will be wired up!
One tip regarding the mounting brackets from the OEM stereo to the Power Acoustik. Transfer the bracket and one screw from each side to the CP-71WA, which will lineup the face perfectly. I did not use 2 screws on each side. I also did not use the metal sleeve that comes with the CP-71WA.
THE FINAL RESULT
can you provide a few more instructions for the 2006+ owners? What do we exactly do with the 2 scosch harnesses?
can you provide a few more instructions for the 2006+ owners? What do we exactly do with the 2 scosch harnesses?
The 2006+ models need the 4 rear speaker wires from harness #1 to power the rear headrest speakers (the small speakers inside the rollover hoops). So harness #2 is used to "donate" 2 pins/wires to be "implanted" into harness #1 for the dash audio controls.
also what is the gps receiver for on these head units? Do you need or use it? I thought carplay just uses the gps of your phone?
I believe the GPS receiver is just a backup if your phone loses GPS signal while using Carplay or Android Auto. I connected it to the unit, but just tucked it in the dash, and I haven't had any problems.
The 2006+ models need the 4 rear speaker wires from harness #1 to power the rear headrest speakers (the small speakers inside the rollover hoops). So harness #2 is used to "donate" 2 pins/wires to be "implanted" into harness #1 for the dash audio controls.
Followed your instructions for the cp71 WAK model (one with the volume knob) and it worked. My rear speakers don’t seem to be outputting any noise and I double checked the wires are hooked up right, I guess they might be blown.
Time to figure out how to remove the aftermarket radio trim the PO permanently affixed to the radio bezel…
Followed your instructions for the cp71 WAK model (one with the volume knob) and it worked. My rear speakers don’t seem to be outputting any noise and I double checked the wires are hooked up right, I guess they might be blown.
Glad everything works except for the rear speakers. Don't "guess" that they're blown. Trace the problem. First make sure the fader on the CP71 WAK is set to power both front and rear speakers. Then use a multimeter to make sure power actually reaches the speakers, and also measure the speakers to see if they're indeed blown. Were they working prior to switching the head unit?
Glad everything works except for the rear speakers. Don't "guess" that they're blown. Trace the problem. First make sure the fader on the CP71 WAK is set to power both front and rear speakers. Then use a multimeter to make sure power actually reaches the speakers, and also measure the speakers to see if they're indeed blown. Were they working prior to switching the head unit?
I just got the car in January and only drove it once to pick it up. It’s been parked since. Didn’t notice i was supposed to have rear speakers until reading this thread.
Mystery solved, the previous owner took them out for some reason.
If anyone is following se-riously’s guide for the wak model (one with volume knob) mount the brackets the forward hole on the unit. Just figured that out after getting my new radio trim and buttoning it all up. the radio door wouldn’t close otherwise.
