laserred02

Hey guys, I have a MY00 with 62k miles on it. My current mods are an AEM v.2 intake, berk header, 70mm invidia test pipe to a 70mm T1R single w/ the resonator deleted. I hear that tuning is the secret to real power NA, but I just don't know which route to go down. Here's how ignorant I am: is it really the case that AP1's can't be reflashed? I'm looking to lower my vtec and gain as much hp/tq as I can, and I may go into forced induction one day when I'm more financially fortunate. In sum, what are the major differences between the major ECUs out there, like K-pro and AEM. If I get an ECU, what else is required? Is this something I can install myself? Is there any simple tuning interface, or do I have to get my car tuned by a shop (Yes I know these are increasingly basic questions, but I've been trolling around for a while and haven't gotten a clear answer)? Finally, I notice that there seem to be different "levels" of ECUs, with prices cheaper than K-Pro's 1500-something-dollar system, like AEM's piggyback ECU, what are these and what's the difference between them?

Thank you so much for reading this thread, any information would be greatly appreciated!

iDomN8U

You can't flash a 00-05 S2000 ECU

AEM/Kpro/Haltech are all stand alone ECU's. Kpro will pass OBD port check on emissions. There are other differences but until you're serious about making big power (turbo, super charger) I wouldn't worry too much about stand alone ecu's. You can "install" it yourself, it's not difficult but I wouldn't try to tune a car myself, leave that to the pro's. It's a costly mistake if you screw up, and you will screw up.

Apexi is a piggyback ecu with an "easier" DIY tuning ability. the only problem is that you can only tune Full throttle, and you can only "fool" the ecu to remove fuel and lean out that car (yes, you can also lower vtec as well). it's OK espeically for 00-03 s2000's but it's still not optimal tuning.


Good luck and don't spend any money without doing your research first

b.r.i.a.n.

like the other guy said, you can't flash a 00-05 ecu. as far as ecu tuning goes, yes it is the key to extracting as much power as you can no matter what the setup is. a properly mapped ecu will make a world of a difference even on a simple bolt on setup such as yours. as far as the major ecu's out there, you have hondata, aem and haltech. the major differece is obd2 support with hondata. hondata will be the most expensive route due to sensors that are required to run the ecu. besides that, all three ecu's are capable of doing the same thing. i would speak to your tuner and ask them which ecu they're most comfortable using. as far as diy goes, if you're not familiar with efi tuning, take it to a professional.

my ap1 is running bolt on's and is tuned with a haltech ecu. i posted the results here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/909...tepped-intake/

look at the graph i posted comparing the car bone stock versus where the car is at now with bolt on's and tuning. again, it's a world of a difference.

s2cho

on a stock s2000 VAFC will yield 13whp over stock.... but with i/tp/e it wont give that much cause its running lean already. but 13 WHP is insane

jh4db536

There is a thread about this in the Engine Management Subforum:

The solution for 00 to 05 s2000 is a standalone system that replaces the stock ecu entirely. Piggybacks are just entry level stuff.

The main point comes down to WHO is tuning it. Logically you would choose the system that the Tuner is most comfortable with in order to get good results.

Given equal tuners with capable systems (standalones), the end results theoretically will be identical regardless of brand. Ease of programming has no bearing if youre going to pay an expert to program it anyway.

There are only 3 standalones widely available (AEM, Haltech, Kpro*):

AEM is most popular and the cheapest. AEM series 2 is 100% plug and play (hardware wise) 5 minute install. The basemap is not meant to be regularly driven on (the latest firmware is much better than the old ones - itll limp to the tuner). If you intend to DIY, the learning curve on the AEM software is probably the steepest due to the amount of 'programming' and the presentation is unlike any other tuning software (every logical/technical relationship is presented + considered). An example is idle control is pretty much just an RPM number and sensitivity setting on the other systems. With the AEM, you have to define what sensors situations define "idle state" - high vacuum + low TPS% + <2000rpm, IDLE servo PWM correlation with RPM change, correlate idle state TPS% with RPM Change override (because the idle setting would target and cancel out/fight against the rpm change in "idle state"), and you must program when idle control overrides and takes over (like when you let off the gas)...bottom line is you have Absolute Control and you can even customize triggers to accomplish things that weren't by default intended - using nitrous tables to trigger/create dual maps for vtec, shift lights, create your own CEL codes, etc. Tuning cost is the same as any other pure standalone.

Haltech is also 100% plug and play (hardware wise) 5 minute install. Software looks like traditional tuning software to me. Cost is between AEM and Kpro. Tuning cost is the same as any other pure standalone.

Hondata KPro is a modified stock RSX ecu that works with the s2000. It is not plug and play hardware wise and requires sensor and valvecover modifications. Highest base cost not including cost of additional sensors, valvecover, and install cost. Basemap is supposedly identical to stock and perfectly driveable unless you have major modification. This OEM ecu is modified so that the engine can essentially be tuned; it's good enough for most people unless youre hardcore. Since it is a modified OEM ecu, it starts like a stock car and retains OBD2 functions. Software is traditional gold standard, and Kpro has been around for a while...decreased tuning fees.

Conclusion is that itll be a 4 digit expensive adventure no matter which system you choose. I personally have the AEM myself, and i forced myself to learn enough to know if im getting jacked around by hired tuners. IMO, this was the best money i have spent on the car due to the gains (present/future) and the knowledge i gained. I thought i was going to regret it.

Word of advice, do not go cheap on the tuning...you will be VERY sorry. Don't lowball the tuner, you will get what you pay for. Tuners are experts + business people at the same time and you have to be very careful...don't be afraid to get a 2nd opinion

Manga_Spawn

I just picked up a Freddy emanage piggy back which I think is a good option for just bolt ons. The issue is make sure someone in your area can tune it. The stand alone ecu's are definately the best but the price is high.