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700whp or Bust

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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tunedbycft,Jul 3 2010, 01:59 PM
If it was my car I would not run a Wiseco piston for a car that is going to make more than 650whp. By experience I broke an "Upgraded wrist pin" from Wiseco making 720whp.

If it was my car & im on a budget, this is what I would run:

-Mahle 9:5:1 comp Coated forged pistons (for Stock Sleeves) Est. $690
-Brian Crower HP Rods Est. $600
-ARP Head studs Est. $160
-New Bearings Est. $130
-OEM Head gasket Est. $80
-Upgraded Dual Springs & Ti-retainers kit Est. $380

SubTotal: $2040

And you got yourself a 700whp motor!

Unless you have the $$$ for the sleeves & that will be a different story.


Thanks,


Fernando @ Kings Performance
I appreciate that, once I have the motor apart, I'll know where I stand.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #42  
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I think they meant to leave the tranny in the car but drop the k member down with the engine still on it, not pull the engine from the top.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:42 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin,Jul 3 2010, 09:39 PM
I think they meant to leave the tranny in the car but drop the k member down with the engine still on it, not pull the engine from the top.
That does me no good, then I wouldn't be able to get the motor out from underneath the car?

If this were on a lift, I'm doing this on a garage floor.

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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #44  
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I always take the tranny off and drop the motor out the bottom but I am crazy
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Jul 4 2010, 12:42 AM
That does me no good, then I wouldn't be able to get the motor out from underneath the car?

If this were on a lift, I'm doing this on a garage floor.

You could either put the car on 2 ft jackstands and the motor may clear pulling it with the k member under the car or you could tilt the engine back toward the firewall and see if you can get the front of the engine to clear the cross member that way and then it should pull right out. If these wont work, you'll probably just have to pull the tranny off the car if it will give you more clearance to move the engine around to be able to get it out through the top. I dont see the tranny being in the way of getting it out from the top though if its still on the car and disconnected from the engine. I may be missing something though.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #46  
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this is what i used when needed to replace my clutch which is pretty much the same thing as removing the motor just w/o an engine hoist https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1036057
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 05:03 AM
  #47  
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I just recently did this. I lowered sub frame bolts per the service manual and pulled tranny off and lifted motor from the top I did this in my garage. Its not so bad. Good luck. Be careful not to damage cam sensors.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #48  
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I use the engine lift to pick up the front of the car high enough to slide everything out.

Taking the tranny off then pulling the motor takes too long
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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You could do it that way to. I was able to loosen the top trans bolts from the engine bay and slide the trans out it was pretty simple I did it by myself. I just didn't want to undo the steering column and suspension cause you have to get everything re aligned both ways. Ball joints as well.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #50  
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I think I am going to pull the tranny off tomorrow and go from there.
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