Well, Im paying nearly $300/month to post "product information" on here, so Ill post in the open
If I were to duplicate this setup, it would run:
$7100 base GT1 kit(4").
+$1200 for the Vmount(would come with modified Koyo)
+$1000 for the GT4088R and customized GT1 manifold/DP(except 44mm, trust me, the 46mm is a PITA).
+$900 for the 4" exhaust.
+$345 for the AEM UEGO wb02 sensor
+$135 for the AEM 3.5 bar map sensor
+$150 for gauges(I suggest you spec your own)
+$100 for the 2mm headgasket
+$350 for supertech springs/retainers(I suggest them, the extra powerband from the "slightly" larger turbo is very very nice).

All parts would be built on our spare S2000 custom, and would fit exactly the same on your S2000.
YOU MUST LOSE AC FOR THE VMOUNT, or custom mount the AC condensor and AC lines. I will not touch this for you.

Complete list:
Custom GT1 manifold.
4" downpipe.
1-7/8" dump tube, external dump.
Vmount setup, 750hp Garrett Core, clamps/couplers.
Koyo Radiator, customized to fit in the Vmount application.
Garrett GT4088R turbo, available in .95 or 1.06 AR turbine housings.
AEM EMS
TiAL 50mm BOV
TiAL 44mm Wastegate
RC 750cc injectors(though you will need larger if approaching 500whp, same price, but youll need an extra AEM Injector driver box).
LoveFab oil filter relocation/cooler kit.
Air pump block off plate(though the airpump will still fit w/the Vmount setup, go figure).

The GT4088R turbos have been known to live at over 700whp all day long, although I highly doubt a stock bottom'ed F20C will do this.
The rest of the turbo components will easily handle this. It's up to the installer to ensure that the engine and tuning is up to the task.
For $11,280.00 you can have the sickest S2000 turbo system on the planet; with all supporting mod's!

Personal project notes:
My tuner, Devin Pearce called me last night after catching wind that the car is running to STOP the power at 450whp on pump gas. Ill keep an eye on engine conditions, but he is worried about the raw airflow of the turbo at 13psi(massive) and the 10:1 compression on 93 octane fuel. My feelings on this?
I think Im already near 450whp. Ive never had 3rd gear RAPPP out like 2nd gear before and I dont think a mere 80whp would make this big of a difference(+80whp makes it around 400whp).
Ive put around 45 miles on the car, most of which are WOT for tuning and had one good knock-spike. I killed that fast by removing almost 2 degrees of timing, and Ill continue to do so if things get a more hectic elsewhere, as Im stuck at a minimum of 13psi(oh darn ).
Any other questions post up or PM me.

 

Does this mean that it might be best to limit the boost to 12-13 psi on 10:1 compression?

The overall compression at 13 psi on 10:1 compression is 18.8:1. If you go to 14 psi it will be 19.5:1 and 15 psi will be 20.2:1. I'm not too sure if the stock pistons will be able to handle anything above 13 psi for too long on 10:1 compression.

Also Cody, did you change your spark plugs to a lower heat range since you added a lot more power? The stock NGK plugs are a #7 heat range and you might want to be at a heat range of #9 or #10. For every lowered heat range, you lower your EGT's by about 175 degrees on average and for every 100 horspower added, you should drop at least 1 heat range. Just a thought.

 

Boost isnt always "boost". 13psi from a t25 will not equal 13psi from a GT4088R in power or airflow. It comes down to airflow and oxygen content per psi(which will be greater with larger turbos). You can run as much boost as you want if the datalogs, tune and setup will support it.
Im running BKR7E NGK's which I beleive are two heat ranges colder than stock. Devin and I run them in just about every high-hp Honda or tricky-to-tune Hondas(stock S2000 with 11:1 compression). Ill be sticking with these as they havent let me down in some VERY extreme situations(270

 

Those are the same spark plugs I'm running.

 

When do you think we should change to a colder plug? At what hp or will these be just fine all the way to 500+?

 

Devin is due up here in a few weeks so Ill let ya know

 

Cody your oil relocation kit is the same that you have installed tihs kit?

 

yes, except now I dont have a cooler installed. Not much use when its 20

 

Am I gonna get one of these blocks and bolts since mine were "hand drilled and not perfectly centered"?

 

youll be getting a machined peice...