Andy's CR PFAB Turbo Build...so it begins.
#182
Thread Starter
So tiny updates. Car has been running great, especially in this cooler sub 70deg weather. Startup, idle, cruising, and wot are just as expected no hiccups. Manifold is not cracking thus far, lets see how long it lasts this time. Gapped my plugs even more down to .017. Doesnt break up anymore 6k rpm+. Well at least from the one run i did the other day.
Also working on a few things. Ive made a turbo screen and cold air ducting for the turbo.
For some reason removing the aem dryflow filter totally changed the way my car performs. It mustve been creating a lot of restriction. Even my blow off valve sounds different now. No more "chu chu" sound, just a free flowing "psh". Also turbo spool up sound is a lot louder. Anyway, im looking into making production level turbo screens. Theres a company that makes them now, but theyre $50+. Hoping to keep costs lower without compromising quality. Ill keep u guys posted with prototype phases.
Also replaced my hid bulbs with morimoto. Output is very clean. Prob just as good as factory new if not better.
Cheap ebay 6k on the left vs 55k morimoto. To be honest the ebay bulbs werent half bad.
No hot spots. No complaints here.
Also working on a few things. Ive made a turbo screen and cold air ducting for the turbo.
For some reason removing the aem dryflow filter totally changed the way my car performs. It mustve been creating a lot of restriction. Even my blow off valve sounds different now. No more "chu chu" sound, just a free flowing "psh". Also turbo spool up sound is a lot louder. Anyway, im looking into making production level turbo screens. Theres a company that makes them now, but theyre $50+. Hoping to keep costs lower without compromising quality. Ill keep u guys posted with prototype phases.
Also replaced my hid bulbs with morimoto. Output is very clean. Prob just as good as factory new if not better.
Cheap ebay 6k on the left vs 55k morimoto. To be honest the ebay bulbs werent half bad.
No hot spots. No complaints here.
#183
Registered User
Hey mate, aren't you a little worried about dirk and shit getting sucked into your turbo without the air filter?
You should hook up your cooling fan so it's on all the time and put your turbo intake pipe directly behind it so it forced air straight in. At least both the radiator and the engine fan will act as a filter in theory.
You should hook up your cooling fan so it's on all the time and put your turbo intake pipe directly behind it so it forced air straight in. At least both the radiator and the engine fan will act as a filter in theory.
#184
Thread Starter
My fan is set to turn on at 170deg F, so its pretty much on all the time. I noticed the other day the stock fans actually blow a lot of air, enough to blow a significant amount of air back in towards the turbo area. But the air is very warm since it is recirculated air in the engine bay between the turbo and radiator. The duct will pick up cooler air outside the bay.
The turbo screen is there to prevent large debris from getting sucked in. An actually cone filter would be cleaner but its so restrictive. Like mentioned before, it affected the responsiveness of throttle, function of the bov, and robs power. I really only drive this car for leisure nowadays so the screen guard is staying on. If i begin driving her more regularly i may switch back n forth. But im convinced its robbing a lot of performance.
The turbo screen is there to prevent large debris from getting sucked in. An actually cone filter would be cleaner but its so restrictive. Like mentioned before, it affected the responsiveness of throttle, function of the bov, and robs power. I really only drive this car for leisure nowadays so the screen guard is staying on. If i begin driving her more regularly i may switch back n forth. But im convinced its robbing a lot of performance.
#185
Thread Starter
So my cars been down for a while now. Mainly because im switching up my setup and the car has been torn apart for quite some time now. Some new changes for the new year include five-o 2200cc blackops EV14 e85 injectors and a new sidewinder setup by import auto pros.
The injectors are already in. Just need some free time to install all the new hot parts.
Heres a pic of the car at the moment
And heres some more pics of the inj and mani setup. The mani was nicely ported as well. Super nice quality looking piece. PM me if anybody is interested in this manifold setup, i can get you best pricing.
The injectors are already in. Just need some free time to install all the new hot parts.
Heres a pic of the car at the moment
And heres some more pics of the inj and mani setup. The mani was nicely ported as well. Super nice quality looking piece. PM me if anybody is interested in this manifold setup, i can get you best pricing.
Last edited by Mijae007; 01-09-2018 at 09:10 PM.
#186
Looks like a quality piece of kit. Who makes them? What will ur hp goal be now and are u keeping the gt30 turbo?
I say do precision 6466 kakak. It'll be good with your 2200 injectors
You have ur springs swapped already?
I'm happy with 487whp on gtx3076 1600ccs 19psi and e85.
Subed for updates...
I say do precision 6466 kakak. It'll be good with your 2200 injectors
You have ur springs swapped already?
I'm happy with 487whp on gtx3076 1600ccs 19psi and e85.
Subed for updates...
#187
Hi guys,
Just want to introduce my project to you guys to get some helpful feedback along my build. I've been collecting parts for years, actually since two Hondas ago to be exact lol to go boost. My goal is to hit around 500hp on E85. I also want to buff up my head with springs and retainers but not sure if that's necessarily needed at this time. Anyway, I've finally got around to tearing the CR down this weekend and am committing to this build! Wish me luck!
Some photos of when i first got her:
OG RG1s for a little while
Then came the 17x10 ce28n
Alignment at vodie's
Currently, my build consists of:
Stock 2008 unopened f22c 65xxxmiles
Stock transmission
Stock differential
Supertech dual springs 95lbs and ti retainers
Defi bf boost gauge and controller
Koyo hypercore radiator
ACT HD pressure plate
OEM friction disk
AP1 flywheel
Exedium differential collars
Spoon front upper strut bar
Spoon magnetic engine and trans bolts
Fluidampr dampener
Balladesports TCT
Balladesports bolt in oil pan baffle
Alloycraft heater bracket
NGK iridium 8
DW 1300cc Injectors
SOS fuel return system
SOS fuel pump wiring kit
AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator
AEM 320LPH e85 fuel pump
PFAB equal length topmount manifold and 3" downpipe
Garrett t3 60trim JB turbo .63 A/R
Tial MVR wastegate
Precision 600hp intercooler
PFAB 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping
Synapse synchronic bov
Schmuckbuilt oil catch can
ChallengeUSA 3" Ta-R exhaust
Mac 3port boost solenoid
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
Hondata flashpro
Vibratechnics HON200M motor mounts
Hks turbo timer
Custom cf heatshielding
Backyard special seat rail
Swift spec r springs
Volk CE28n 17x10 +45
Nankang ns-2r 120utqg 255/40/17
Shout outs:
Pang at PFabrications
All the guys at Science of Speed
Nate at Balladesports
Lorenzo and David at Import Auto Pros
James and Lawrence at Signature Autobody
Kenneth at Funfzehn Automotive
Speedfactory
I literally just started the tear down this weekend and only got around to fitting the intercooler. I'll try to be as detailed as I can with each step so others may find this thread helpful if they're in the same situation as me. Then again, I'm usually pretty good at taking pictures and documenting stuff at the start and tend to forget to take pictures towards the end...hopefully that doesn't happen. Anyway, on with the build and pictures!
I cut and smoothed the plastic guards with a dremel to make room for the intercooler piping.
Driver's side:
Passenger's side:
Once clearance for the piping was good, I used the dremel to cut away at the support beams to make room for the precision intercooler (its all hacked up, gonna clean it up later when its all fitting nicely).
Passenger's side:
Driver's side:
As you can see, I started to make a bracket out of 1.5"x1.5"x6" aluminum L bracket to use as an anchor to mount the intercooler. The precision 600hp intercooler has a threaded hole on each endtank. It also had these aluminum extensions that I cut off to get the intercooler up higher closer to the crossbar about 1/4" more, shown below:
Then I mocked up the pfab manifold, turbo, and downpipe. I ended up thrashing the exhaust manifold studs taking them out. Gonna have to buy some new ones :/ It all fits very nicely. Only thing is the elbow for the wastegate sits on the hard brake line which I'll have to bend the line out and around the elbow. Just wondering how I should go about doing this so that I don't put a kink in the line or cause it to vibrate against the chassis somewhere (if anyone has pointers here, please share, I was planning on just using some pliers with shop towels to prevent any scratches??).
Downpipe:
Hard brake line issue:
I'll end up putting a 3" flexpipe somewhere between the end of the downpipe and testpipe.
BATTERY RELOCATION
I also relocated my battery and fusebox some time ago referring to multiple diy threads here on s2ki. The relo was pretty easy and straight forward for anyone tackling this too. I took a couple pictures to show how I did mine.
I relocated my battery to the trunk with 0gauge welding wire and gold terminals from O'Reilly's autostore. I had to use a step bit to drill a hole in the firewall to feed the wire through. From there I used a distribution block to wire it up to the factory fuses. I grounded the battery to a bolt behind the passenger seat and it seems to hold well with no electrical problems...yet. Hopefully its a good spot, I probably should have sanded the area down a bit but it hasn't given me grief yet. I also used a Scorpion battery kill switch nearest the battery for the power line. It's a cheaply constructed piece but its doing the job. I wrapped it with an old neoprene knee brace that I had so stuff in the trunk don't accidentally hit it. It's kind of half-assed since I couldn't find good places at the time to mount everything. But I recently saw another member mount the battery with factory hardware in the spare tire section, looks so much cleaner. I might have to copy him and place my battery there.
As for the fusebox, I ordered a second bracket from Honda pictured below and it worked out perfectly with how I mounted the fusebox turned to the side.
Well this is where I'm ending the build tonight. Dropping off my spare oil pan with my dude at Import Auto Pros to get the bung welded up. I ordered some grey permatex for the oil pan sealant (is this good stuff??) Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to finish up mounting the intercooler. I want to be able to run the stock grill to be a little more stealth on the road. I'll take pictures of how that goes.
Thanks for reading, and if anyone has any pointers for me drop a line, good or bad. I'll definitely have questions for you guys throughout this thing so help me when I ask haha.
Just want to introduce my project to you guys to get some helpful feedback along my build. I've been collecting parts for years, actually since two Hondas ago to be exact lol to go boost. My goal is to hit around 500hp on E85. I also want to buff up my head with springs and retainers but not sure if that's necessarily needed at this time. Anyway, I've finally got around to tearing the CR down this weekend and am committing to this build! Wish me luck!
Some photos of when i first got her:
OG RG1s for a little while
Then came the 17x10 ce28n
Alignment at vodie's
Currently, my build consists of:
Stock 2008 unopened f22c 65xxxmiles
Stock transmission
Stock differential
Supertech dual springs 95lbs and ti retainers
Defi bf boost gauge and controller
Koyo hypercore radiator
ACT HD pressure plate
OEM friction disk
AP1 flywheel
Exedium differential collars
Spoon front upper strut bar
Spoon magnetic engine and trans bolts
Fluidampr dampener
Balladesports TCT
Balladesports bolt in oil pan baffle
Alloycraft heater bracket
NGK iridium 8
DW 1300cc Injectors
SOS fuel return system
SOS fuel pump wiring kit
AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator
AEM 320LPH e85 fuel pump
PFAB equal length topmount manifold and 3" downpipe
Garrett t3 60trim JB turbo .63 A/R
Tial MVR wastegate
Precision 600hp intercooler
PFAB 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping
Synapse synchronic bov
Schmuckbuilt oil catch can
ChallengeUSA 3" Ta-R exhaust
Mac 3port boost solenoid
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
Hondata flashpro
Vibratechnics HON200M motor mounts
Hks turbo timer
Custom cf heatshielding
Backyard special seat rail
Swift spec r springs
Volk CE28n 17x10 +45
Nankang ns-2r 120utqg 255/40/17
Shout outs:
Pang at PFabrications
All the guys at Science of Speed
Nate at Balladesports
Lorenzo and David at Import Auto Pros
James and Lawrence at Signature Autobody
Kenneth at Funfzehn Automotive
Speedfactory
I literally just started the tear down this weekend and only got around to fitting the intercooler. I'll try to be as detailed as I can with each step so others may find this thread helpful if they're in the same situation as me. Then again, I'm usually pretty good at taking pictures and documenting stuff at the start and tend to forget to take pictures towards the end...hopefully that doesn't happen. Anyway, on with the build and pictures!
I cut and smoothed the plastic guards with a dremel to make room for the intercooler piping.
Driver's side:
Passenger's side:
Once clearance for the piping was good, I used the dremel to cut away at the support beams to make room for the precision intercooler (its all hacked up, gonna clean it up later when its all fitting nicely).
Passenger's side:
Driver's side:
As you can see, I started to make a bracket out of 1.5"x1.5"x6" aluminum L bracket to use as an anchor to mount the intercooler. The precision 600hp intercooler has a threaded hole on each endtank. It also had these aluminum extensions that I cut off to get the intercooler up higher closer to the crossbar about 1/4" more, shown below:
Then I mocked up the pfab manifold, turbo, and downpipe. I ended up thrashing the exhaust manifold studs taking them out. Gonna have to buy some new ones :/ It all fits very nicely. Only thing is the elbow for the wastegate sits on the hard brake line which I'll have to bend the line out and around the elbow. Just wondering how I should go about doing this so that I don't put a kink in the line or cause it to vibrate against the chassis somewhere (if anyone has pointers here, please share, I was planning on just using some pliers with shop towels to prevent any scratches??).
Downpipe:
Hard brake line issue:
I'll end up putting a 3" flexpipe somewhere between the end of the downpipe and testpipe.
BATTERY RELOCATION
I also relocated my battery and fusebox some time ago referring to multiple diy threads here on s2ki. The relo was pretty easy and straight forward for anyone tackling this too. I took a couple pictures to show how I did mine.
I relocated my battery to the trunk with 0gauge welding wire and gold terminals from O'Reilly's autostore. I had to use a step bit to drill a hole in the firewall to feed the wire through. From there I used a distribution block to wire it up to the factory fuses. I grounded the battery to a bolt behind the passenger seat and it seems to hold well with no electrical problems...yet. Hopefully its a good spot, I probably should have sanded the area down a bit but it hasn't given me grief yet. I also used a Scorpion battery kill switch nearest the battery for the power line. It's a cheaply constructed piece but its doing the job. I wrapped it with an old neoprene knee brace that I had so stuff in the trunk don't accidentally hit it. It's kind of half-assed since I couldn't find good places at the time to mount everything. But I recently saw another member mount the battery with factory hardware in the spare tire section, looks so much cleaner. I might have to copy him and place my battery there.
As for the fusebox, I ordered a second bracket from Honda pictured below and it worked out perfectly with how I mounted the fusebox turned to the side.
Well this is where I'm ending the build tonight. Dropping off my spare oil pan with my dude at Import Auto Pros to get the bung welded up. I ordered some grey permatex for the oil pan sealant (is this good stuff??) Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to finish up mounting the intercooler. I want to be able to run the stock grill to be a little more stealth on the road. I'll take pictures of how that goes.
Thanks for reading, and if anyone has any pointers for me drop a line, good or bad. I'll definitely have questions for you guys throughout this thing so help me when I ask haha.
#188
Thread Starter
I used 0gauge welding cable for my battery wires. Drilled holes and bolted down the stock battery tray in the trunk
#189
Its an import auto pros piece. Im going to max out my fuel pump on e85...hoping to hit 600+. And yes, i have supertech dual springs/retainers. Did you figure out your injector issue?
I used 0gauge welding cable for my battery wires. Drilled holes and bolted down the stock battery tray in the trunk
I used 0gauge welding cable for my battery wires. Drilled holes and bolted down the stock battery tray in the trunk
Are u going for over 600whp? Wow
#190
So my cars been down for a while now. Mainly because im switching up my setup and the car has been torn apart for quite some time now. Some new changes for the new year include five-o 2200cc blackops EV14 e85 injectors and a new sidewinder setup by import auto pros.
The injectors are already in. Just need some free time to install all the new hot parts.
Heres a pic of the car at the moment
And heres some more pics of the inj and mani setup. The mani was nicely ported as well. Super nice quality looking piece. PM me if anybody is interested in this manifold setup, i can get you best pricing.
The injectors are already in. Just need some free time to install all the new hot parts.
Heres a pic of the car at the moment
And heres some more pics of the inj and mani setup. The mani was nicely ported as well. Super nice quality looking piece. PM me if anybody is interested in this manifold setup, i can get you best pricing.