S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Bigger battery for forced induction?

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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 07:36 AM
  #21  
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Its a group 51 or d51 battery i believe
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 12:55 PM
  #22  
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51R I think.

All the auto parts stores wanted $100+ around here. I went to Honda just to check, and ended up buying one for $86 + tax.

I think free replacement for 2 years, prorated replacement after that until 5 or 6 years old.
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 10:39 PM
  #23  
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Cool. I see the CCA (cold cranking amps) are high at 500. Whats the minimum CCA we'd want in our cars?
On a different note, could a bad negative lead cause intermittent power cuts randomly?
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 02:01 PM
  #24  
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I just picked up a bosch agm battery with 450cca. Hopefully ita good. Price was pretty good at $160 with 3yr warranty
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 05:30 AM
  #25  
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I have a full size 34/78 optima yellow top, no problems I keep a maintainer (noco g7200) on the battery when the car in not in use. I had problems before with 4 gauge stereo wire, added 0 gauge power wire, added 4 gauge ground from battery to the block, 2 0 gauge grounds in the trunk. Seemed to do the trick.
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 06:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by staylor725
I have a full size 34/78 optima yellow top, no problems I keep a maintainer (noco g7200) on the battery when the car in not in use. I had problems before with 4 gauge stereo wire, added 0 gauge power wire, added 4 gauge ground from battery to the block, 2 0 gauge grounds in the trunk. Seemed to do the trick.
looks nice . What issues were you having ?
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 07:04 PM
  #27  
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Thanks, I was having issues with slow cranking, stalling when high load electronics came one, and battery seemed as if it was not being charged by the alternator.
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 11:26 PM
  #28  
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I just replaced my negative terminal with a brand new thicker gauge wire on Saturday. I also replaced the terminal connectors (from the battery to the chassis) and that solved the problem of intermittent power cuts. Those cuts would cause the ECU to reset and then have to relearn which would cause the car to switch off sometimes when coming to a stop and during idle. You know what I mean. My driver's window would lose its auto setting when those cuts would occur as well. Now she's all good

When I looked closely at the underside of the old wire I was shocked to see how much corrosion ate away at it! The connector itself was in poor condition too. The bicarb and hot water cleaning I did two months ago didn't really help that much. No wonder there was an earth leak...
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 04:07 AM
  #29  
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A small amount of dielectric grease on those ground connections is recommended.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 12:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
I just replaced my negative terminal with a brand new thicker gauge wire on Saturday. I also replaced the terminal connectors (from the battery to the chassis) and that solved the problem of intermittent power cuts. Those cuts would cause the ECU to reset and then have to relearn which would cause the car to switch off sometimes when coming to a stop and during idle. You know what I mean. My driver's window would lose its auto setting when those cuts would occur as well. Now she's all good

When I looked closely at the underside of the old wire I was shocked to see how much corrosion ate away at it! The connector itself was in poor condition too. The bicarb and hot water cleaning I did two months ago didn't really help that much. No wonder there was an earth leak...
told ya
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