Building a Block and Head package
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
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From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Not to be long winded but I'll try to get my .02 in...
The factory relationship between the crown/dome/combustion chamber is one of the reasons the F20/F22 works so well in NA form. Trying to keep that relationship as close to stock as possible will yield the best results. The engineering on the engine wasn't a mistake, Honda knew exactly what they were doing. We are however talking about a forced induction engine and that opens us up for a lot of room for mucking that up while still making very good power. There are "poor" designs that still make good power but again your primary aim should be to improve on the engine in the aspect of strength without creating inefficiency. I can understand and appreciate going "down" to 10.1cr. It's going to buy you some margin for error in tuning/fuel without knocking the wind out of your sails...
The next thing that MUST be considered is the sleeving... Before you order pistons you should check the location of the sleeves. You need to put the head on the EMPTY block and examine the sleeve location VS the chamber location. If you're going to run a pistons positive deck you MUST ensure the sleeves are in the correct location. The sleeving process is so invasive that getting the sleeves back in correctly leaves a lot of room for error. I've seen .020-.025 shift in the bores on a sleeved block that was done by one of the larger names in the community. This will effect piston to head clearance and head gasket fitment/integrity. Not to mention taking away from the original efficiency of the engine. This all sounds bad... But keep in mind it's a boosted engine, it's going to make power however if you're looking for as close to perfect as possible dealing with a experienced engine builder becomes the better choice.
As far as piston to valve the pockets in the shelf pistons are plenty for what you're doing and most times engineered with a 1mm oversize valve. If you're going through the expense of a build engine I suggest you talking to us at Real Street about getting a set of custom pistons that will make the most of your efforts.
Thanks
The factory relationship between the crown/dome/combustion chamber is one of the reasons the F20/F22 works so well in NA form. Trying to keep that relationship as close to stock as possible will yield the best results. The engineering on the engine wasn't a mistake, Honda knew exactly what they were doing. We are however talking about a forced induction engine and that opens us up for a lot of room for mucking that up while still making very good power. There are "poor" designs that still make good power but again your primary aim should be to improve on the engine in the aspect of strength without creating inefficiency. I can understand and appreciate going "down" to 10.1cr. It's going to buy you some margin for error in tuning/fuel without knocking the wind out of your sails...
The next thing that MUST be considered is the sleeving... Before you order pistons you should check the location of the sleeves. You need to put the head on the EMPTY block and examine the sleeve location VS the chamber location. If you're going to run a pistons positive deck you MUST ensure the sleeves are in the correct location. The sleeving process is so invasive that getting the sleeves back in correctly leaves a lot of room for error. I've seen .020-.025 shift in the bores on a sleeved block that was done by one of the larger names in the community. This will effect piston to head clearance and head gasket fitment/integrity. Not to mention taking away from the original efficiency of the engine. This all sounds bad... But keep in mind it's a boosted engine, it's going to make power however if you're looking for as close to perfect as possible dealing with a experienced engine builder becomes the better choice.
As far as piston to valve the pockets in the shelf pistons are plenty for what you're doing and most times engineered with a 1mm oversize valve. If you're going through the expense of a build engine I suggest you talking to us at Real Street about getting a set of custom pistons that will make the most of your efforts.
Thanks
I'd also always suggest someone who wants a reliable street car go 10:1 or lower. The extra few hp gained in high compression is all well and good but for $$$ sake I don't mind going a bit lower.
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