I had the same exact issue (35R)
I heat wrapped the manifold. and that didnt work. Although the heat wrap does not get as hot as the manifold, but still does get hot to thin out the coupler.

Put aluminum foil that I picked up at SK Speed shop and same thing.

Put a metal clap and then wrapped it with heat wrap. Probably worse as the metal clamp heats up.

I had to take the turbo out and weld an extension of 2" piping and move the coupler foward away from the manifold. Problem solved.

 

Yup, I know, you told me how you did it in a previous thread. But the whole point of this thread was to see if there was another way. I can't take the turbo off and have it welded, I just don't have the time. Also, as I stated in the OP, the next setup I'm going with in December will need the ICP to connect to a compressor housing exit straight up rather than angled forward with an elbow.

More or less, the point of this thread was to find what solution out there provides the most protection, even if it is only for a few weeks - a month at a time.

 

i had somewhat the same issue. i have the gt35r with notched frame. when i was boosting, the motor would torque and push the cold side up against the notch and clock the turbo by itself. i ended up cutting a little more out of the frame and the problem has not come back.

 

Yeah, I'm going to have to have my frame notched for my next turbo setup in december, but I know IP will do the best job there is b/c those guys are just pimps when it comes to turboing S2Ks. My frame isn't nothced currently (obvious I guess).

Conclusion: Looks like I'm just going to have to go with the temp fix of swapping out heat wrap every couple of weeks for the next 3 months. Not too much of a hassel, just have to check up on it every once in a while and inspect the coupler to make sure its not getting too burnt up.

Thanks for your ideas guys, I appreciated them regardless of my outcome.