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Crank Play :(

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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Slows2k
Not much to share. Push the crank back, insert a feeler gauge behind the washer and was able to roll the crank and get the washers to drop out. Really long feeler gauge required.

It's easier with the girdle out, which could be done in car as well. the drive belt and transmission mainshaft will keep the crank in the car, no need to remove connecting rods. Reuse the main bearings.

Possible to main bearings with a crank in the car as well.
Hmmmm......Very interesting......You can get those long feeler stock (1 ft length) in various thicknesses at McMaster-Carr. I've used these extensively in aerospace propulsion.

LJ, when we had Cody's, new to him, 76k mile block getting ready to go into the car, I was doing the girdle turbo drain, oil pan and other things and when I rotated the engine on the stand, I heard this clank much like you guys heard. I was like "Oh Sh!t!" to Cody and he says....what man?.....I start checking the crank play just by feel and it was clanking and moving a lot and I said...Cody, I think you may have a bad thrust bearing here. He was way frustrated and I told him to just hang on and let me get the Helms manual and I'll see what the specs are before we condemn this motor. I saw that Honda calls for .004"-.014" and so I grabbed my true bar and calipers and did a few checks and low and behold his came out at around .012" and within specs and so, we ran with it.

As you know, Cody has been making around 680 whp on e85 and he hasnt had any issues. He also beats the crap out of the car.

You guys should also be just fine.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Slows2k
An actual endplay # would help here. Is there any bearing material in the oil? I'd be pulling the pan and looking at the thrust bearings before condemning an engine that runs fine.



I believe the 3rd post in lead us here
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Originally Posted by Slows2k' timestamp='1302062731' post='20434222
Not much to share. Push the crank back, insert a feeler gauge behind the washer and was able to roll the crank and get the washers to drop out. Really long feeler gauge required.

It's easier with the girdle out, which could be done in car as well. the drive belt and transmission mainshaft will keep the crank in the car, no need to remove connecting rods. Reuse the main bearings.

Possible to main bearings with a crank in the car as well.
Hmmmm......Very interesting......You can get those long feeler stock (1 ft length) in various thicknesses at McMaster-Carr. I've used these extensively in aerospace propulsion.

LJ, when we had Cody's, new to him, 76k mile block getting ready to go into the car, I was doing the girdle turbo drain, oil pan and other things and when I rotated the engine on the stand, I heard this clank much like you guys heard. I was like "Oh Sh!t!" to Cody and he says....what man?.....I start checking the crank play just by feel and it was clanking and moving a lot and I said...Cody, I think you may have a bad thrust bearing here. He was way frustrated and I told him to just hang on and let me get the Helms manual and I'll see what the specs are before we condemn this motor. I saw that Honda calls for .004"-.014" and so I grabbed my true bar and calipers and did a few checks and low and behold his came out at around .012" and within specs and so, we ran with it.

As you know, Cody has been making around 680 whp on e85 and he hasnt had any issues. He also beats the crap out of the car.

You guys should also be just fine.
Hey Chad, Yeh I kinda had a feeling that you were talking about Cody. Well, after looking at honda's tolerances and measuring the endplay, We gave Dana our suggestion and he decided to run with it. Ive never seen that type of endplay on a f20c motor before, and we've worked on quite a few of them. Like I said, you cant disagree with what Honda calls for, but it just makes you nervous.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:57 AM
  #64  
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Spoolin- I hope I have the same outcome as your buddy cody

I trust LJ with my car 100%

He has never led me the wrong way and has put a smile on my face everytime I've put the pedal down to the floor.

But just in case I will slowly be acquiring parts here for a built motor and prepare for the worst
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #65  
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my act hd set up f#$ked my hole engine, popped out my thrust bearing, eat the crank and washer wall.
cost me a new engine.....it was a fully built one from laskey....

never going to touch an act product again!!!



check this out

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/796..._hl__hondabim+
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #66  
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the clutch had nothing to do with it. Even with a stock clutch your motor would have eaten the thrust bearing.

Did laskey tell you what the end play was? did they even check it?

with failure at only 200 miles on the engine its almost always going to be 100% the builders fault.

and what makes you think that any other clutch would have been any different, EVERY clutch will put a force on the end of the crank. Do you really think your act hd pressure plate put more force on the crank than any other pressure plate on the market.
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