S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Criticize my motor setup

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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 02:39 PM
  #11  
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vbb
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Curious... how did you fuel wash the engine? Did you have a wideband? Were you running rich the whole time? Could you smell fuel in the oil during your changes? I'm going to switch to the IDs from the RCs and get retuned this coming spring (if not before).
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by myridechanelle
Hi all,

I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Brian Crower Econo Rods. These are the cheapest rods but state they can handle up to 200hp per cylinder. I'm not gonna have a crazy turbo setup yet but 400-500hp could be in the future. It'll run the greddy turbo setup for now because I'm spending all my money on the engine build. Just wondering if anyone have used these before and would rather prefer the BC 625+ rods.

Please let me know if you would change anything with my setup. I'm looking for a pretty economical build.

AP1 motor
Laskey/Benson sleeves
CP pistons 88mm bore 9:1 CR
BC Econo rods
ARP Headstuds
Cometic 89mm head gasket .030" thickness
ACL race bearing set
New oem oil pump
ID 1000cc injectors

Oh, and why am I rebuilding? Damn RC Eng injectors fuel washed my engine....

Going to be a long winter.
What are your goals with this engine?
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #13  
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Buy a stock used long block and make sure u don't fuel wash it. Tune musta been bad.

No need to build the motor for 400-500. Save the money.

IMO.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by camuman
Buy a stock used long block and make sure u don't fuel wash it. Tune musta been bad.

No need to build the motor for 400-500. Save the money.

IMO.
^^ This
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:46 PM
  #15  
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I have a wideband. It was showing really rich right before the car went down. I'm guessing I had leaky injectors because I had bought them used. It could have also been because I installed the boost solenoid and drove it around for a day. Bad choice on my part because I was supposed to get retuned the next day.

Picked up the shortblock yesterday and my builder showed me the pistons. It pretty much blew a chunk of the pistons off and damaged my cylinder walls in the #1 and #4 cylinders. There are also some scrapes up in the heads near the bottom of the valves. I've been looking for engines locally but most of them are high mileage/early year models where I think they'd fail soon enough. I'm only going to be running the greddy turbo setup for now until I can save up for another setup.

Used longblock is around 3500

Building motor(rough numbers):
sleeves 1200
pistons 600
rods 600
headstuds 150
stock headgasket 60
acl bearings 150
OEM oil pump 250
misc items, gaskets, assembly of motor 600
total=3610

Seems better to just pay a bit more to have a tougher motor.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #16  
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Two things.

1. That's not fuel wash that's detonation.

2. Look harder for used long blocks. They are way cheaper.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #17  
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X2 you seem like you spent quite a bit on certain parts.going 30 pages deep on Google sometimes saves you $$$$$ lol

After just finishing a full blueprint build, I had basically the exact same questions you did.I ran acl rod bearings and a cometic hg.
I wouldn't go with that big of a borw, as previously mentioned, your going to want the room later on
If your going to leave the bore, i would start looking at a stroke kit. You have already set it up for the most part
If my numbers are correct, a k24 crank,k1 rods and mahle h22 pistins with a stock headgasket at that bore would net you a 2.5L (roughly)
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