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I've never messed with any of the evap stuff before. Thanks for the write-up.
Out of curiosity what do the removed components weigh?
When I have time and if I can remember I'll try to get a weight on everything. If I was guessing right now I'd say 10-15 lbs for all components including a dry charcoal canister.
Found a filter that worked for the breather hose. K&N 62-1370, 1" flange ID. Fits around the plastic shell end of the breather hose snugly, now you can rest assured that nothing will be ingested into the tank.
Also took some measurements. The OD of the plastic drain fitting coming out of the subframe is roughly .700" in case anyone wanted to cap it off or run a hose to...somewhere...idk. Also measured the hole ID for the grommet where all of the connections come out; it's 1.5" ID. Ordered a blanking grommet. I'll post pics of that when it's finished. Should clean up the area nicely and keep the connections out of the elements. Beyond that I don't think I have anything else to offer; the EVAP system is essentially entirely gone at that point and all hoses & connections accounted for. I wanna call the mystery solved, but we'll see how others make out and/or if anyone has anything additional to add.
When I have time and if I can remember I'll try to get a weight on everything. If I was guessing right now I'd say 10-15 lbs for all components including a dry charcoal canister.
Thank you.
Was just curious if removing the evap/charcoal canister and adding a fuel surge tank would be a wash weight wise. Sounds like it would be pretty close.
Okay, here's my last addition(s) to this thread for a "comprehensive" removal of the evap system. Will be updating the OP post as well. All of this is optional, but I typically like to see things fully through until I'm satisfied, so if anyone else would like to do any of this, I've blazed the trail for you.
I wasn't happy with just leaving the leftover wiring for the various evap components at the rear of the car just zip-tied out of the way. I ended up unwrapping everything, de-pinning the connectors to remove the wires from the factory grommet without destroying it, putting shrink tubing over the pins, bundling the wires up and inserting them back into the body of the car. I then used a blanking grommet for the 1.5" ID hole in the body for a clean finish. Didn't see the need to put the connector shells back on the wires; only if I was re-installing the system would I bother, and even then in order to get the factory grommet back on you'd need to have the wires de-pinned anyway so....
I got the grommet off of Amazon, it's from "Caplugs" P/N BPFE-39MM. You can get 4 of them for 6 bucks:
Lastly I capped off the "drain" nipple on the subframe that connects via hose to the evap canister. This isn't necessarily a drain at all, but instead where the excess built-up pressure is vented or "drained" to from the canister itself. Realistically there's no way to "drain" liquid upwards, because that's how the rubber hose connecting to it is oriented. Also, if any moisture needed to be drained from the subframe, it would come out of the hole immediately adjacent. Again, not necessary, but a nice finishing touch.
For that I used a coolant bypass cap, Dorman P/N 02251.
Advertised as 3/4", but the ID is .690, so it fits snugly around the .700" OD of the drain nipple.
That's it guys, there's nothing more that can be done about eliminating the evap system from the car short of removing the hard line which I'm definitely not doing, lol.
This is awesome! Want to do an Air Pump Removal next?
I already removed mine. Removal of the air pump is very straightforward in comparison to the evap system, and is much better documented on here and various other places.
Can you post pictures when you cap off these hoses? I also need a way to go back to stock for emissions testing and don’t want to rip out the whole Evap systems. Thanks!
@gnehc1 It was much to difficult to leave everything in there and try to clamp things off. However, ripping everything out and installing the valve was dead-nuts easy. I do need to go back and add the same foam+ziptie to the other corrugated breather hose. When I first disconnected the last line that went to the gas tank, massive hissing because my tank was pressurized! When I took off almost every other EVAP component, I got sprayed with liquid gasoline. My EVAP system was filled with fuel everywhere.
I remember early in the 2000's mods would actually Sticky usefull information. Sadly the ones on S2KI mostly seem to post up on non-car related threads. Another reason why this forum is dying.
I'm not a mod in this section, but I'll put in the request for this to be stickied. I have been looking for this exact information for quote some time, and was randomly linked to the thread from Facebook today. I need to remove the system in preparation for my ITBs and wanted to make sure I could do it properly before I got started.
In the future you can @ and tag people. If you come across something you think should be stickied @ the mods of that section.
Big thank you to everyone involved for the time and documentation.