Does EU really cut the mustard?
Originally Posted by stena' date='Dec 30 2008, 12:42 AM
buy an AEM EMS and dont ask this questions..there is no way around Stand alone
Like everyone says, its all in the tune.
The EU will be perfectly safe. There are other tuning options besides stand alones that work very well.
ok,stand alone is stupid than,....
J&S is a great System,read about it and than you will know why its used
If it was me i wouldnt ask about EU if you plan on using it and not dish out cash for stand alone..just use it and do what you think..
you always know whats the way to do things properly,and what way you will do it. the way you choose its up to you.
J&S is a great System,read about it and than you will know why its used
If it was me i wouldnt ask about EU if you plan on using it and not dish out cash for stand alone..just use it and do what you think..
you always know whats the way to do things properly,and what way you will do it. the way you choose its up to you.
aem ems is not too expensive, esp when you can get used 1052u for aorund 1200 shipped.
i have used aem ems and can say its a quality product. easy to use, and makes sense.
i have used the eu software, its different. instead of seeing the actual numbers your running, you see what you are adding or removing from the stock tune. i am not a huge fan of it. yes it will work, yes it will work well, but its different how you use it.
i think eu is around 700ish? ehh, i can see saving 500 bucks being important. but i sacked up and bought aem ems when i was NA! just dew it!
i have used aem ems and can say its a quality product. easy to use, and makes sense.
i have used the eu software, its different. instead of seeing the actual numbers your running, you see what you are adding or removing from the stock tune. i am not a huge fan of it. yes it will work, yes it will work well, but its different how you use it.
i think eu is around 700ish? ehh, i can see saving 500 bucks being important. but i sacked up and bought aem ems when i was NA! just dew it!
speaking from complete experence with both systems im gonna say run the aem ems, i bought the EU because i had the same mind state as you, but in the long run i spent more on the EU trying to get the car to run right then i would have on if i went with aem from the begining. if your tuner knows EXACTLY whats he is doing, i heard the system perfroms great. if not save yourself the headache and go with aem ems.
^Now that is a smart statement!! EMS is not stupid, it is just more money and you lose a few stock things, like passing OBD2 and the water temp gauge.
You most definately need to find an expereinced emanage tuner though.
You most definately need to find an expereinced emanage tuner though.
Originally Posted by chimmike' date='Dec 29 2008, 06:26 PM
I am my tuner. I've used EU in limited fashion before, but just can't justify spending standalone dollars on a stock motor setup with nothing outrageous and not pushing any envelopes.
PS. if you need base maps for the Greddy just let me know.
Originally Posted by stena' date='Dec 30 2008, 06:47 AM
ok,stand alone is stupid than,....
J&S is a great System,read about it and than you will know why its used
If it was me i wouldnt ask about EU if you plan on using it and not dish out cash for stand alone..just use it and do what you think..
you always know whats the way to do things properly,and what way you will do it. the way you choose its up to you.
J&S is a great System,read about it and than you will know why its used
If it was me i wouldnt ask about EU if you plan on using it and not dish out cash for stand alone..just use it and do what you think..
you always know whats the way to do things properly,and what way you will do it. the way you choose its up to you.
regardless, I don't need bells and whistles. I've used emanage before and found the tuning to be somewhat intuitive, in that once you've scaled for the injectors you use, logging afrs via my innovate logworks software, I can pinpoint spots in the range under load where I need to enrich or lean the mixture, and I can play around a little with ignition without worrying too much.
no ECU does Individual cylinder Knock Retard...and increasing the timing pulled untill the knock is gone..and than its back to normal timing..
you can choose from 1-10 degrees pulling 1 or more at a time or from 2 - 20.
or pulling from 2 to 20 by 2 degrees.
and pulls timing to the cylindar that only knock and not the others..
Pulls timing on the fly in a closed loop cycle..
-thats why i told you to read about this.
you can choose from 1-10 degrees pulling 1 or more at a time or from 2 - 20.
or pulling from 2 to 20 by 2 degrees.
and pulls timing to the cylindar that only knock and not the others..
Pulls timing on the fly in a closed loop cycle..
-thats why i told you to read about this.
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