egt is pointless unless you have them on all 4 cylinders. one cylinder could be at its limit and another running cold, it would then even out and look normal on the gauge. save the money for something useful

 

not sure about the f20c because i havent looked into it, but on the b18c the third cylinder would run the hottest because of the firing order and location. people would put the EGT there so it would be the highest reading... but yes, if something were to go wrong in the other cylinders your EGTs would look normal.

but to say egt is pointless unless its on all 4 cylinders isnt really true, its not pointless.

 

most tuners use the measurement in Celcius.......and i don't bother to convert them to the Far. scale so be careful with what people are posting here....they can be getting backwards info when it comes to the conversion scale.....and some may be a little confused about facts from rumor.....most posts above are from what members are just seeing under normal driving.....and depending on how restricted the exhaust may be with the cat still on that will greatly effect EGT's....i used to tune high HP DSM's and we would see a huge difference from car to car with different setups, different turbos, and exhaust combos.....EGT's will rise the hottest under long 4th gear-5th gear pulls uphill under a big load......lots of stress put on the motor for long periods of time....is where you watch to see what it creaps up to for tuning purposes......for Celcius readings they should be absoultly perfect right at 850 degrees......anything hotter watch out.....the car will feel the fastest right before it lets go.....900 is the cutoff....don't go over that at all......don't judge the EGT's in the lower gears at WOT......its not accurate.....there is no load put under the motor for a long time.....anything between 800-850 is fine.....the closer you get to 850 power will increase but i would recommend upgradeing your radiator and droping in a cooler thermostat with almost straight water in rad.....this will drastically help keep the block temps from riseing the leaner you go......also air temp and elevation will also effect temps......the cooler and more dense the air is the more powerful the combustion is and that increases EGT's as it leans out fuel and makes more HP......hot muggy humid days especially at higher elevations the EGT's will go down and tend to run rich....so pay attention to conditions when you tune and make sure you don't have a partially plugged injector as you may toast a cylinder...my S is currently in the low 800-830 range at the track which is on the rich side a tad....but its better to be safe than sorry....GOOD LUCK!

This was my 2G i just sold that went mid 11's @ 125mph on pump fuel with street tires and was daily driven! EGT's were 850 degrees C right at the trap

 

My EGT's are in the 12-1300's under boost as well...

 

if its not reliable why use it? i dont think i know a tuner that uses a single egt setup to tune or monitor a car. they are very expensive for what good they do. there are much better tools out there. wideband being at the top of the list.

 

IMO if you are going to run a single EGT sensor, it should be in the downpipe as close to the turbine outlet as possible. Ths way you can see what's happening in all cylinders. It's still not the best way to do business, but if you just HAVE to know what your temps are that's the way to go.

I'm a fan of using a sensor per runner, it definitly helps with setting cylinder trim.

 

It's not about the one best tool. If you really want to know what the motor is doing then wideband in conjunction with an egt is the real way to go.

 

i can see some sense in running both.