electronic cutout
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
here's my review... I rarely post, but since i did a lot with this (controlled via microcontroller) i'll share some info
8 months with 3 inch DMH. It takes 2-2.5 seconds to open. I'm trying to find a compact solenoid that will snap it open and shut, but thats to be determined.
It seals nicely, and i haven't had any issues with leaks, however if it is shut when i turn the car off and the exhaust is hot, i will need to give it a quick flick to close completely when i restart the car from when it is cold. (the metal contracts)
the cutout motor did start to wiggle after about a month and it would not open or close the cutout without being held perpendicular to the mount. I called up DHM and he sent a new motor free of charge. However, I never used the new motor, i simply bent a worm clamp in the shape of a 'D' to hold the motor from wiggling and have not had a problem since. I would put this clamp on a new motor too. This simple fix makes the vibration issues associated with e-cutout nonexistent.... but its only possible with the DMH because of the motor mount design. http://www.dmhperformance.com/
with it open i netted a gain of over 45 hp.
stock exhaust on the other side. the 3"-> 2.5" pipe/flange bolts to the factory exhaust. I had to drill 2 new holes in the factory (triangular odd shaped) flange, but it is without issue.
The Y pipe sits where the cat converter would be.
the dump tube re-enters the exhaust after the Y split... so the waste gate exhaust goes through the mufflers and the turbo exhaust goes out the cutout.
The motor sits next to the rear trans brace, and as you see in the pictures there is no issue of scraping.
I created a custom circuit, microchip and software to open the cutout via a switch or with a push of the throttle (as in going full throttle). I could probably configure the software to re-close the cutout due to the hot exhaust metal contracting issue mentioned previously. (just thought of this because its not a huge ordeal to flick the switch once when just starting the car [if i indeed had it closed when i turned it off...rarely])
The micro switches on the extra fuel map (nitrous) in the AEMEMS when the cutout is open to supply the extra fuel that is required due to the increased air flow. It turns off the map when the cutout is closed.
This is IMPORTANT if you don't have some way to change the fuel map, tune for numbers with the cutout open and simply run rich when it is closed. this is better than running lean with it open.
The micro does more than this function, but that functionality is for another topic.
I ride around with it open most of the time. Its not loud. I shut it when another person is in the car so you don't have to raise your voice with the top up. With the top down the wind noise is louder than the open exhaust.. I hear civics with louder exhausts. The turbo whistle is still very audible. With it closed, the exhaust more quiet than stock and the only sound is turbo screaming like a referee whistle.
picture time..
looking to the back... the dump tube is the flexible piping on the left
stock ride height
from the side...
behind the turn down i put in a sheet of aluminum to prevent any exhaust from sooting on the underside of the car and to prevent any hot exhaust hitting the gas tank. After 8 months there is very little soot on the aluminum sheet, indicating the turn down is working properly.
turbo setup is custom.
revhard mani, gt30, diy ic pipes, yadda yadda yadda
8 months with 3 inch DMH. It takes 2-2.5 seconds to open. I'm trying to find a compact solenoid that will snap it open and shut, but thats to be determined.
It seals nicely, and i haven't had any issues with leaks, however if it is shut when i turn the car off and the exhaust is hot, i will need to give it a quick flick to close completely when i restart the car from when it is cold. (the metal contracts)
the cutout motor did start to wiggle after about a month and it would not open or close the cutout without being held perpendicular to the mount. I called up DHM and he sent a new motor free of charge. However, I never used the new motor, i simply bent a worm clamp in the shape of a 'D' to hold the motor from wiggling and have not had a problem since. I would put this clamp on a new motor too. This simple fix makes the vibration issues associated with e-cutout nonexistent.... but its only possible with the DMH because of the motor mount design. http://www.dmhperformance.com/
with it open i netted a gain of over 45 hp.
stock exhaust on the other side. the 3"-> 2.5" pipe/flange bolts to the factory exhaust. I had to drill 2 new holes in the factory (triangular odd shaped) flange, but it is without issue.
The Y pipe sits where the cat converter would be.
the dump tube re-enters the exhaust after the Y split... so the waste gate exhaust goes through the mufflers and the turbo exhaust goes out the cutout.
The motor sits next to the rear trans brace, and as you see in the pictures there is no issue of scraping.
I created a custom circuit, microchip and software to open the cutout via a switch or with a push of the throttle (as in going full throttle). I could probably configure the software to re-close the cutout due to the hot exhaust metal contracting issue mentioned previously. (just thought of this because its not a huge ordeal to flick the switch once when just starting the car [if i indeed had it closed when i turned it off...rarely])
The micro switches on the extra fuel map (nitrous) in the AEMEMS when the cutout is open to supply the extra fuel that is required due to the increased air flow. It turns off the map when the cutout is closed.
This is IMPORTANT if you don't have some way to change the fuel map, tune for numbers with the cutout open and simply run rich when it is closed. this is better than running lean with it open.
The micro does more than this function, but that functionality is for another topic.
I ride around with it open most of the time. Its not loud. I shut it when another person is in the car so you don't have to raise your voice with the top up. With the top down the wind noise is louder than the open exhaust.. I hear civics with louder exhausts. The turbo whistle is still very audible. With it closed, the exhaust more quiet than stock and the only sound is turbo screaming like a referee whistle.
picture time..
looking to the back... the dump tube is the flexible piping on the left
stock ride height
from the side...
behind the turn down i put in a sheet of aluminum to prevent any exhaust from sooting on the underside of the car and to prevent any hot exhaust hitting the gas tank. After 8 months there is very little soot on the aluminum sheet, indicating the turn down is working properly.
turbo setup is custom.
revhard mani, gt30, diy ic pipes, yadda yadda yadda
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,037
Likes: 0
From: Irvine, CA
Originally Posted by s.hasan546,Nov 16 2008, 11:10 PM
hey i was thinking if this would help making power on a kw sc kit 
i wouldnt really be able to boost creep lol
i wouldnt really be able to boost creep lolhttp://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0883
and then came to s2ki to see what I could find. Lo and behold here you
guys are talking about it...
I wonder how lean we'd run with the valve full open. Perhaps it
could be adjusted so the max open position isn't "full" open...
Wait, the one I see reviewed here replaces the cat?
I want to do something cat-back that allows me to drive around
all stealth-like, no-cel, exhaust friendly, and then twist a knob to convert to
"screaming beast" mode.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ryiin2
S2000 Modifications and Parts
4
Jun 19, 2017 01:58 PM
finalkillss
S2000 Forced Induction
12
Aug 30, 2008 03:34 PM
JoeyBalls
S2000 Forced Induction
24
Feb 14, 2008 08:48 PM