S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Forced Induction Chat

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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #101  
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Honda-bond
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #102  
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Honda-bond is hands down the best. It works so well in oil, fuel, and pressure areas.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:30 PM
  #103  
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Subcribing.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #104  
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I used Hondabond too, but I think a while ago I saw someone say they used the copper spray.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Phillie,Oct 24 2006, 12:02 PM
I have a head gasket question. I'm installing the inline 3mm HG tonight. I already have the valve train out and will be removing the head today and installing ARP head studs. What gasket sealant did you guys use. I know the whole thing doesn't get sealed. Just around the timing chain area and a couple dabs underneath. I'm pretty sure I don't have to use the Honda specific one but was interested in what everyone may have used. Thanks.
Either Hondabond or Permatex "Right Stuff". Don't even thing about using Copper Spray. That's for a different purpose.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #106  
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Permatex Ultra grey can also be used instead of Honda Ultra-Flange II. Same stuff, different colored tube.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 01:04 AM
  #107  
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Today at work I BORROWED a tube of dynatex black rtv silicon gasket maker. We use this on everything at work-axle flanges, oil pans, oil wheel seal covers, etc. It smells like crap but it works very good. BTW I work on tractor trucks.

Got the head off today. Well actually the intake manifold first. Wasn't to bad just a lot of hoses and connectors. Got the head loose and slid it forward after pulling it of the dowels which made it a lot more simpler to unbolt the ground. Stopped there tonight becuz I had a couple questions that I had. I can find them out tom. but since I'm already posting...

Tried to find the firing order in the manual.

Is # 1 cylinder closest to the front of the car? I'm pretty sure but I'm not going to make a guess on it becuz I have to turn the crank to TDC before re-installing head.

If I set the timing chain gently down what's the chance the chain moving teeth? I don't want to mess up the timing. I have to remove the oil pan anyways since I have a pre-tapped one and I may as well check while I'm down there.

When I install the tensioner it should already be reset. Do I need to do anything else with it?

I think that's all the questions I can think of for now since I'm tired. Thanks.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:13 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Oct 24 2006, 11:31 PM
Permatex Ultra grey can also be used instead of Honda Ultra-Flange II. Same stuff, different colored tube.
Even has the Honda part number on it.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:22 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Phillie,Oct 25 2006, 04:04 AM
Is # 1 cylinder closest to the front of the car? I'm pretty sure but I'm not going to make a guess on it becuz I have to turn the crank to TDC before re-installing head.
Yes - the Cylinder #1 is closest to the front of the car.

Originally Posted by Phillie,Oct 25 2006, 04:04 AM
If I set the timing chain gently down what's the chance the chain moving teeth? I don't want to mess up the timing. I have to remove the oil pan anyways since I have a pre-tapped one and I may as well check while I'm down there.
Should be fine. Mine actually shipped with the block from Virginia to Laskey Racing in California and then back to Virginia.

Originally Posted by Phillie,Oct 25 2006, 04:04 AM
When I install the tensioner it should already be reset. Do I need to do anything else with it?
As far as I know, it should be set. Perhaps someone can clarify.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Phillie,Oct 25 2006, 04:04 AM
When I install the tensioner it should already be reset. Do I need to do anything else with it?
If it is not backed down with a pin holding it in place you have to wind it back down and put a pin it in.

This will be a two person job. Unless you have the right tools to do this.

If this is a new part you are fine.
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