Forced Induction Chat
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From: AZ.& So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Oct 25 2006, 08:22 AM
Yes - the Cylinder #1 is closest to the front of the car.
Should be fine. Mine actually shipped with the block from Virginia to Laskey Racing in California and then back to Virginia.
As far as I know, it should be set. Perhaps someone can clarify.
Should be fine. Mine actually shipped with the block from Virginia to Laskey Racing in California and then back to Virginia.
As far as I know, it should be set. Perhaps someone can clarify.
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From: AZ.& So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Raven628,Oct 25 2006, 08:42 AM
If it is not backed down with a pin holding it in place you have to wind it back down and put a pin it in.
This will be a two person job. Unless you have the right tools to do this.
If this is a new part you are fine.
This will be a two person job. Unless you have the right tools to do this.
If this is a new part you are fine.
The car has alittle less then 5k miles so it is still in good condition. So when I re-install the tensioner I just unbolt the nut and let it unwind back in and its set? Sounds pretty reasonable to resetting the tensioner even though its going to pretty tight anyways with the 3mm HG. Thanks for your guys help and time! I'm pretty sure you'll see me back with more questions!!
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From: Behind you. Yep, I'm there.
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Oct 28 2006, 11:02 AM
I don't know about anyone else's car, but on my S2 the top of each coil has always been labeled 1-4 for me.
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From: AZ.& So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Oct 28 2006, 08:02 AM
I don't know about anyone else's car, but on my S2 the top of each coil has always been labeled 1-4 for me.
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From: local courts ...
A bit back some of us had been discussing available spark plugs for forced induction applications. After doing a few hours of research last night - I came across some pretty good information!
OEM Spark Plug : NGK 7772
Description : Double Platinum plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, projected tip, extreme long life double platinum, fine point platinum on center electrode, platinum tip laser welded on ground electrode, Stainless steel washer reduces plug self-backing. .044"gap
Recommended Plug : NGK 7173 : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
Racing plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, non-resistor, projected tip, V-power (v-grooved center electrode)
Recommended Plug : NGK 3330 (This is the one Inline Pro uses) : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, JIS height, projected tip
New Idea : NGK 6097 : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, ISO length, projected tip, V-power (v-grooved center electrode)
Here is the article written by SparkPlugs.com in regards to 'Resistor' Spark Plugs :
As well, Hondata did a very good tech article on Spark Plug Interference. You can view this article by clicking here :
Hondata Tech - Spark Plug Interference
OEM Spark Plug : NGK 7772
Description : Double Platinum plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, projected tip, extreme long life double platinum, fine point platinum on center electrode, platinum tip laser welded on ground electrode, Stainless steel washer reduces plug self-backing. .044"gap
Recommended Plug : NGK 7173 : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
Racing plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, non-resistor, projected tip, V-power (v-grooved center electrode)
Recommended Plug : NGK 3330 (This is the one Inline Pro uses) : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, JIS height, projected tip
New Idea : NGK 6097 : Copper Design : 1 Heat Range Colder
14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, ISO length, projected tip, V-power (v-grooved center electrode)
Here is the article written by SparkPlugs.com in regards to 'Resistor' Spark Plugs :
Originally Posted by SparkPlugs.com
Resistor
At the moment the spark jumps the gap it causes a high frequency burst of energy, this is known as RFI (radio frequency interference). This is why resistor spark plugs were introduces in the mid 1960's. Placing a resistor within the spark plug suppresses the RFI. Without resistor plugs in your car you can experience static on your radio as well as interfere with other sensitive electronic equipment. Some later model vehicles as well as newer Powersport engines must use resistor plugs for a proper "talkback" to the electronic ignition. Outboard marine Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) such as used on some Johnson and Evinrude marine engines require a special inductive type resistor (such as a Champion Q-type or NGK Z-type). Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance.
For automotive CDI high output ignition systems systems (such as Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel), refer to Resistor plugs for race engines for information relative to modified motors.
At the moment the spark jumps the gap it causes a high frequency burst of energy, this is known as RFI (radio frequency interference). This is why resistor spark plugs were introduces in the mid 1960's. Placing a resistor within the spark plug suppresses the RFI. Without resistor plugs in your car you can experience static on your radio as well as interfere with other sensitive electronic equipment. Some later model vehicles as well as newer Powersport engines must use resistor plugs for a proper "talkback" to the electronic ignition. Outboard marine Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) such as used on some Johnson and Evinrude marine engines require a special inductive type resistor (such as a Champion Q-type or NGK Z-type). Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance.
For automotive CDI high output ignition systems systems (such as Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel), refer to Resistor plugs for race engines for information relative to modified motors.
Hondata Tech - Spark Plug Interference
