help with comptech sc install
Originally Posted by ECU Pirate,May 13 2008, 09:06 AM
btw, dyno'ed last night on a mustang dyno. The baseline dyno was 192whp bone stock, and is now 267whp with the aftercooled sc!
Originally Posted by ABCVTEC,May 14 2008, 10:58 AM
267 with a boost leak on a Mustang dyno is pretty good. Once you find that leak and fix it let us know the new numbers. Also, do you have any other supporting mods?
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,May 13 2008, 09:37 PM
Yeah 4.5 is too low. Should be 5-6 is what I'm hearing. Belt tension seems like the most likely from what I hear. Everyone I talk to says to really make sure this is super tight and this is the easiest thing to do first. You might be at 300whp if this is slipping pretty bad currently. Not sure what you mean about the after cooler couplings? Did you covert to air intercooler or something? Stock SC kit comes with water aftercooler so if these fittings were leaking or not right you would be leaking water not boost right?
And 13afr is a strong N/A number man, be careful about this. Should be 12 tops. You can scuff your pistons running this lean with sc. likely #1 & #4 cylinders first, its been done many times from running to lean afr.
And 13afr is a strong N/A number man, be careful about this. Should be 12 tops. You can scuff your pistons running this lean with sc. likely #1 & #4 cylinders first, its been done many times from running to lean afr.
Originally Posted by ECU Pirate,May 14 2008, 03:42 PM
I was told by Chris today at Science of Speed that I could adjust the fuel pressure regulator to help with running lean...Will try that when I have a chance to get on the dyno again.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,May 14 2008, 08:57 PM
Yes you need to loosen the top lock nut and take an Allen key and screw the post in to richen I am told, but you really should have a AFR gauge so you can see where your at at all times safely, especially if you need to make an adjustment like you do currently. It gets expensive to go to the dyno every time you find something you need to change, and sometimes thats too late. Your playing a risk game. You invested in the SC, be smart and invest in the proper monitoring gear as well. I would get a boost gauge also. Boost gauge $80-$100 Good AFR monitor $250-$300 You don't need a dyno or tuner if you have this stuff. Good luck 

I will be getting a wideband af gauge and boost gauge soon.
thanks
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,May 14 2008, 10:36 PM
12.8 is still a bit high is it not? How did your tuner feel about it? Out of curiosity are you still running the factory fuel pump or did you switch to like a Walboro 255?
So the belt is not slipping? or do you know yet? Its got to be unless something is really funked out with your system.
yeah those gauges will help you allot, the boost gauge will even tell you if your belt is slipping by how the psi numbers or dial reads as you get to higher rpm's, if the belt is slipping you will see the dial waver and drop down as the rpm get higher instead of the dial continue to rise. You won't really be able to confirm this and address it without the gauge or tuner.
So the belt is not slipping? or do you know yet? Its got to be unless something is really funked out with your system.
yeah those gauges will help you allot, the boost gauge will even tell you if your belt is slipping by how the psi numbers or dial reads as you get to higher rpm's, if the belt is slipping you will see the dial waver and drop down as the rpm get higher instead of the dial continue to rise. You won't really be able to confirm this and address it without the gauge or tuner.
I do not believe the belt is slipping. It is tight per the verbal and written instructions I received from Science of Speed. They said to tighten it to where when a straight portion of the belt cannot be turned more than 90 degrees with the thumb and forefinger. Also, if the belt were slipping, wouldn't the hp/tq curve be jumpy or just fall off? It stays smooth and builds power all the way to redline. When I hooked up a boost gauge from a friend, the needle pegged at about 6 psi and stayed there until redline. The boost gauge is about 1 psi off though. It sits at 1psi when not hooked up. Perhaps the dyno's boost reader is off a bit. Also, the dyno guy said that I might not be able to make the full amount of boost due to the lower air density and elevation here in Las Vegas.
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