I need help 2001 turbo s2000, CA
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 944
Likes: 67
From: Midland
Sorry this is happening to you, but I strongly urge you to take the following words to heart. Before you take your turbo S2000 to get tuned you must determine the health of the motor and turbo setup yourself. When you dyno, things will come up. You want to minimize these things the best you can.
You need to check the health of this motor: Do a leakdown test. Forget the trust worthiness of the seller. Look at where you are now. If you don't know how, youtube it and buy/borrow the required equipment.
Do you absolutely know what your fuel solution is? Do you know with certainty what kind of fuel pump and injectors you have? I would check. Your tuner is going to want to know. Don't take the builder's word for it. He sold you a headache remember? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? If you have one of the 320 or 340 lph pumps and a stock FPR, your stock fuel pressure will be high.
You must check for boost leaks. You don't want to be wasting time/money on the dyno trouble shooting where you are losing boost. There are threads here and on you tube on techniques for detecting boost leaks.
Check the valve lash. You got an incomplete setup and you have no idea what it actually is.
What kind of spark plugs do you have? You need to know this. Visually check. Also look at their condition.
Take off that turbo and inspect it. It sounds like its a ball bearing turbo. Does it have a built in oil restrictor? If not, are you using one? Are you sure? Visually check. I bought a twin turbo kit with low miles (and it did have low miles), but it still needed to be rebuilt cause the owner trusted a terrible shop. Who knows the history of that turbo. May be the builder bought it off some one else. Point is, take it off and visually inspect it yourself because you really don't know what you have at this point.
This is optional, but will make your life easier.
You need to know where the timing is actually set: get a timing light, look at youtube and check your timing. There are quite a few maps in AEM for setting idle, but you need to know where you are starting from. There is a thread here with tons of AEM links.
Again, I'm sorry this is happening to you. If you can't do any of the above, you need to find a reputable shop that can. Do not skip these steps. You can try and hope things are okay, but if something goes wrong, you're going to be back where you started.
I hope you have an adequate clutch for this. I don't recommend dropping the transmission. Cross that bridge when you get there. I do recommend a transmission and differential oil flush.
What kind of coolant do you have? Don't use that prestone orange crap. It'll leave sand in the system?
What shape are the engine mounts in? If they are original, I'm certain they are shot.
What shape are your differential mounts in? Check those too.
You need to check the health of this motor: Do a leakdown test. Forget the trust worthiness of the seller. Look at where you are now. If you don't know how, youtube it and buy/borrow the required equipment.
Do you absolutely know what your fuel solution is? Do you know with certainty what kind of fuel pump and injectors you have? I would check. Your tuner is going to want to know. Don't take the builder's word for it. He sold you a headache remember? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? If you have one of the 320 or 340 lph pumps and a stock FPR, your stock fuel pressure will be high.
You must check for boost leaks. You don't want to be wasting time/money on the dyno trouble shooting where you are losing boost. There are threads here and on you tube on techniques for detecting boost leaks.
Check the valve lash. You got an incomplete setup and you have no idea what it actually is.
What kind of spark plugs do you have? You need to know this. Visually check. Also look at their condition.
Take off that turbo and inspect it. It sounds like its a ball bearing turbo. Does it have a built in oil restrictor? If not, are you using one? Are you sure? Visually check. I bought a twin turbo kit with low miles (and it did have low miles), but it still needed to be rebuilt cause the owner trusted a terrible shop. Who knows the history of that turbo. May be the builder bought it off some one else. Point is, take it off and visually inspect it yourself because you really don't know what you have at this point.
This is optional, but will make your life easier.
You need to know where the timing is actually set: get a timing light, look at youtube and check your timing. There are quite a few maps in AEM for setting idle, but you need to know where you are starting from. There is a thread here with tons of AEM links.
Again, I'm sorry this is happening to you. If you can't do any of the above, you need to find a reputable shop that can. Do not skip these steps. You can try and hope things are okay, but if something goes wrong, you're going to be back where you started.
I hope you have an adequate clutch for this. I don't recommend dropping the transmission. Cross that bridge when you get there. I do recommend a transmission and differential oil flush.
What kind of coolant do you have? Don't use that prestone orange crap. It'll leave sand in the system?
What shape are the engine mounts in? If they are original, I'm certain they are shot.
What shape are your differential mounts in? Check those too.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Forged h beam rods, oem rings bearings pistons block and head. Precision gt35 turbo, inline pro turbo manifold, ported intake manifold, Hondata intake gasket, 50mm bov, 38mm vband gate, act hdg6 clutch, act pro light flywheel, oem Trans with new tail shaft bearings, oem rear end with 70k miles. ID1000s injectors, aem ethanol 320lph pump, aem ems v1 1052 ecu. I'll start checking everything after work today
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Forged h beam rods, oem rings bearings pistons block and head. Precision gt35 turbo, inline pro turbo manifold, ported intake manifold, Hondata intake gasket, 50mm bov, 38mm vband gate, act hdg6 clutch, act pro light flywheel, oem Trans with new tail shaft bearings, oem rear end with 70k miles. ID1000s injectors, aem ethanol 320lph pump, aem ems v1 1052 ecu. I'll start checking everything after work today
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 61
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,370
Likes: 0
From: wausau
First off. Maybe prettyboy69 the last owner can chime in and help you out since he's still active on this forum and second off, theres no such thing as a Precision Gt35 turbo. It's probably a Garret GT35 turbo. Either way, that seems to be a solid turbo setup. And do you know why the motor had to be rebuilt?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2014
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