Oil on top of the coilpack? and draining into the spark plug tube?

Check your valve cover tube seals....

 

If you have oem pistons, the pins have to be pressed in. Aftermarket rods are designed with a floating pin design. Mixing aftermarket rods and oem pistons is mixing different design philosophies. Also, I'm not sure if the wrist pin sizes are even interchangeable.

Edit: I stand corrected on the wrist pin issue. Apologies for the misinformation. I remember looking at those last rebuild and it completely slipped my mind. I'm surprised they are interchangeable like that. That's nice of the aftermarket to be so accommodating.

 

i bought a couple thousand $ in parts from pettyboy with really good communnication im very suprized .
have you touched base with him .
if its a new build there will be particles in you oil if the engine is being broken in should look like metal flake paint

 

Ok so here is my side of the story, I hope that it will shed a little more light on the situation. After the car was purchased the owner called me from west yellowstone saying the motor was making a knocking noise. I told him to try and take it to a shop there and stop driving it immediately to prevent any further damage to anything just in case. He decided to drive it back to me 110 miles away and weight the risk since the situation was obviously complicated to say the least. After he arrived back there was a clear noise coming from the motor, so my friend that is a very reputable engine builder and race car builder came to my house and we spent a couple hours checking over everything. First off I pulled the tct off my dd s2000 so ruled that out. Second thing we did was pull the pan. Oil was spotless, no metallic color, no shavings, nothing in the screen in the vtec solenoid nothing at all and oil still looked perfect. So I re sealed the oil pan and threw it back on, then we pulled the spark plugs and number 2 looked terrible, lots of burnt oil on the end of it which led us to believe that a piston was hurt, wether it was a crack, collapse skirt or ring land, whatever the case something wasn't right with that cylinder. We also looked at everything rotating assembly wise while the pan was off and it was all spotless which also confirmed our idea of a hurt piston. I have no idea how the car was drove after he left, I don't think he beat on it or rodded the crap out of it but I don't know for sure so I gave him back 1000 dollar to help transport/fix the car back to california without hurting anything else as well as gave him 2 spare stock pistons so he wouldnt have to buy one. We told him if the piston is hurt you might make it back to California and it might hold together or it might come apart and ruin everything, he opted to drive the car and take the risk. At this point I felt no more obligation to the situation and that was that. I also dropped the original price from 13k to 11k then gave hime another grand because I felt really bad that this had happened and wanted to help him fix it and get it home without futher damage, but the loan on the car was payed off, I couldn't just buy it back that was the only reason I sold the car to pay off the loan. I think what I did was more than fair considering I didn't have to do anything to help, it's a used aftermarket turbo'd car, but I did feel terrible about what happened so the grand is what I gave back. Also the new owner texted me a couple different times on his drive home telling me the motor kept running better and better as elevation dropped and boost came on faster and faster as well, all I thought was, why the hell are you getting into boost with a hurt motor? Baby the thing home and hope nothing happens but obviously something went through the motor while he was driving and it wiped out more than just the piston which we had clearly discussed could happen if he decided not to transport it.

As for the rebuild, everything was set to the looser end of Honda oem specs for the motor all oem bearings, rings, gaskets, ect. I am friends with the Honda master tech here and he printed off all pages on the s2000 engine specs and everything was set towards the looser end of the tolerance but still well within oem specs of the motor. The car never gave me a single motor issue the entire time I drove it after the rebuild. Zero knocks, tinks, rattles, ect. The reason the engine was rebuilt in the first place is because I purchased the vehicle not running with the promise from the previous owner that the motor was good. Turns out the first time I fired it up it had a sever rattle from the motor and it ended up being scarred wrist pins and scarred wrist pin rod journals which I showed the new owner before the car was payed for why the motor was rebuilt. It was auto x'd religiously by the previous owner and this is the only reason I can figure the wrist pins were scarred like they were eveyethting else was great in the motor. I also replaced the chains and guides while the motor was apart with all oem as well which wasn't cheap.
Also oem wrist pins in these cars are a free floating pin and have pin locks same as forged pistons btw not press fit like b/d/h series just FYI. Oem wrist pin size if I remember off the top of my head is .905? But I know they worked and went together perfectly fine and the new oem wrist pins I ordered came with new wrist pin locks to prove my point they are not press fit, they are NOT like b/d/h series motors that are press fit rods

Anyway that's my side of the story I probably won't be getting on this thread again just because I have an anxiety problem and I can't take reading all these posts of how big of a piece of crap I am and how I screwed this guy over. I'm a very straight forward person and in this shitty situation I think I did more than most people would to help.
I do feel bad about how things turned out, especially since this is his first turbo'd car ever and he had problems with it so quickly it ruined his view on the car community as well as buying turbo'd cars from people online and I am sorry for that but I feel that I did what I should have and that's that. I apologized to the new owner probably 20 times while he was at my house and we were checking everything out, and frankly I can't keep apologizing for something that isn't my fault. The motor had zero issues for almost 600 miles after the rebuild then less than 100 miles after he got it something happened. I wasn't there so I can't say what happened but it is what it is and that's all I have to say. I have done plenty of business with people on this site as well on Honda-tech and whenever there has been a problem ive tried my best to make it right.

I did keep in contact with the new owner a couple calls and texts after he had gotten the car back to answer any questions or help with advise but after he sent me a nasty pm on here I opted out to stop helping and cut ties because I did what I felt is right. If any of you disagree that's your right and you can say what you like but I won't be reading this thread or posting on here again so have at me if you wish. It was a shitty situation to say the least and that sucks, for the last time I'm sorry how things turned out, I won't be apologizing again.

 

Thanks for the other side and the wrist pin info. I'm embarrassed I missed that. I've never hurled or implied insult to the seller. Buying an aftermarket boosted car is a extraordinarily high risk idea and even owning a well running one requires more than casual attention. These things are always in some state of tweak. Bolts, nuts, and couplers always have to be checked and rechecked. Heat shielding has to be examined, etc. You develop bionic ears/nose listening for the tale tell signs of impending diff failure, smelling/hearing for exhaust leaks from cracked manifold/wastegate welds.

I couldn't tell if the OP was aware of this.

 

OP is obviously not very informed on s2000 engines, or boosted engines in general. Pettyboy seems to be pretty straight forward, and like he said this is a heavily modified car, you assume a risk purchasing something like this. No offense OP, but why would you choose to run an engine making a knocking noise over and over again, and also drive it over 200 miles round trip while simultaneously going into positive boost pressure? If you don't have the knowledge or skill set to diagnose an engine issue, you should've flat bedded the thing to the nearest competant mechanic. The fact he gave you ANYTHING back was a truly unique act, as he could've told you to eat shit and figure it out on your own.

As stated before, I strongly suggest you locate a competant mechanic, because based off your posts and actions I don't think you have the ability to diagnose and fix this on your own. If you have metal shavings to the degree mentioned, it is likely you're looking at a full teardown. Not trying to be an ass in the least, just being realistic in my advice. I hope you do get it figured out, and don't get too discouraged. Most of us here have been in your shoes with some vehicle or another. Post in your local area forum, its likely there will be someone who can point you to a good s2000 mechanic.

 

i took the engine apart yesterday after fixing exterior and interior that were stripped by thieves next to my house. cylinder 1 is completely scarred from the top piston ring breaking, cylinder 4 piston had pre detonation damage with broken top ring. after machinist evaluation, wrong sized rings were used and piston slap occured after the ring broke in cylinder 1, also that the tune was to aggresive in timing and mixture. damage to the cylinder wall is unrepairable after the drive home. i got pulled over in california, previous owner never registered the car and had plates from a 1991 honda civic on it. 7 years of back fees in california. turbo blew on the drive home also, i bought a stock manifold and ecu in hope that the knock/ping was the tune/turbo set up. now building with steal darton sleaves because old sleaves werent capable of being bored because of its material. not that it matters but the head never had a valve job done to it, but meybe that doesnt go under "rebuilt engine".

 

previous owner told me the tune was in need of tuning and also garenteed me i would be able to drive it home from idaho before i even came(i did make it home"not without bad ocurrance"). but anyway none of this matters, im building it myself i have money so life is good. im ready to finally have a running s2k.