Typically will be louder at points of lower oil pressure (aka startup) and also can be louder when changing rpm suddenly. You can kind of hear that in the video. Many times if you raise the rpm to around 3000 and then back off you will hear it rattle louder as well.

Granted a lot of trained ears have been fooled by other sounds that sound a lot like rod knock, so inspection should be done to make sure before saying for sure.

 

I am not hearing anything near the same sound in your video as the one you just posted by someone else. I do hear a very slight tick at 1:11 but hard to say that is rod knock. What you posted in the other video is night day different from this one. Maybe you are hearing something totally different than we are hearing in the video. I would still do some further inspection either way, but this is a lot less conclusive of it being a rod knock sound.

 

Also to reiterate, knock sensors are not intended to detect rod knocks. They are intended to detect spark knock. Totally different things. This is not to say a rod knock will cannot be detected by the knock sensor, but that is not their intended purpose. There have been plenty of engines with hammering rods that never were detected by the knock sensor. I think the consensus though is that if you are saying it has been much louder than your vid and closer to the other vid you posted, not starting it again and doing some teardown and inspection is the next step.

 

Yeah that's the only thing perplexing is some places online say the oil will "fill the gap" when it's cold and then knocking will start when warm, others say rod knock is constant if it's rod knock....

 

It depends on the extent of the issue and the type of knock (rod, wrist pin, etc). It can vary a lot and you may not hear it at some rpm but may be present, just not audible enough to overcome the engine noises.

 

alternatively you could have a different knock. main bearing failure is quiet in most RPMs and crank walk (thrust washer failure) only makes noise when the crank moves laterally. i had a knocking f22c that i bought years ago that i tore down only to find good bearings and no damage to cylinder walls. it wasn’t until much later did i notice the crank was polished at the thrust washer and the thrust washer was welded to the block.

but again, those can be narrowed down in the oil pan, vtec solenoid screen and oil filter. i’m actually not sure how to test thrust washer, i suppose you can measure the endplay from the crank pulley side but that’s not very reliable

 

I don't really hear anything alarming from the video to be honest. Have you gotten anything back on the oil analysis?

 

That's precisely how you detect thrust washer bearing issues, measure at rest crank end play. There is a thread on how much play is acceptable.

 

yeap, i just wouldn't trust my instrumentation (or experience) with the motor in the car lol

 

Do you get any warranties on these Inline engines that you've invested in ? I would think they would be interested in helping out to uphold their reputation.