So, lets make sure I have it right. You are using and AP1 crank, AP1 Rods and AP2 pistons. Now if I am not mistaked the AP1 and AP2 blocks are idencal right?

I really can't wait to see the pistons milled, I was thinking if you could maintain the thickness of the piston where is flat, where it is says IN, then you should have a good shot.

 

This is awesome. I hope it works out like we are thinking. Good work man.

Btw, that little bit of undersizing on the pistons sealing might actually be good for boost. Its actually better to run a looser engine under boost, you may notice a bit of oil burn, I'm sure hardly any though, but it'll definitely be a hapier engine that way. Boost the crap out of it and see if you can crack 800 whp. Be the first and go for it! And on a franken motor at that.

 

It's like b series fun all over again

 

you guys are certifiably crazy but I like it. HMMM I have two blocks in the garage that needs sleeves anyways. I think I might do the high compression version. Then try to wrap out to 11000...

 

subscribing

 

Very interesting. Subscribed.

 

Get hold of a damaged piston and cut it up with a bandsaw before you start milling the tops off your good set. There isnt a lot of material to play with so its worth sectioning a piston to have a proper look first.

 

That's a good idea. I'd be worried about milling any amount of material from the dome without knowing the actual material thickness first.

 

I measured the dome thickness before sending anything to the machine shop.
ap1 dome thickness = .340 inch
ap2 dome thickness = .265 inch

After machining the ap2 dome thickness will be around .170 in.

I will be machining only the center of the piston so the stock quench pads will remain unchanged. Talked to the machinist today, I should have my pistons back by Friday if all goes well.

 

Yes im using an ap1 crank and rods and an ap2 piston. However after the machine shop it dosent matter anymore what piston you use because the end result would be the same for both. Since the rear side of the forging die is the same and we are machining off the domes. Yes F20 and F22 block are identical except for the part numbering.