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Yes the car definitely spun the #4 rod bearing. I was running 19 psi on a sub 30 degree night, (new years eve). I did 1 third gear pull on what should of been 16 psi, and I heard the bearing spin. Im kind of bummed about it, however I knew when I started this project that the motor could fail, I just didn’t expect this kind of of failure. Any way my aem boost controller malfunctioned and car was over boosting to 19 when it should of only seen 16 psi. I think this and the fact that all of the parts for this build were previously used, can be attributed to the failure. Anyway, the block is still good, pistons look excellent and I will be shortly putting in a new crank and reinstalling the motor.
I think as a proof of concept this is a feasible alternative to using a head gasket. Although it is much more work to remove the pistons and have them machined, I love the fact that I can use the stock head gasket and still push upwards of 20 psi on 91 octane.
well here are the pictures of the motor, enjoy.
YUP, there’s your problem! he spun real good, however the bearing half’s did not overlap.
Its like im panning for gold in my oil pan
My toasted f20 crank
cylinder walls and pistons look new, haha.
Oh yea on a side note, DO NOT BUY THE FRAM EXTENDED GURAD OIL
FILTERS. When I spun my bearing the little bits of bearing fell into the oil pan. At this point the oil pump picked them up and sent them to the oil filter. The oil filter as we all know should filter these particles out, right? Well not the extended guard, it has a supposed safety system built in. It has a oil bypass valve that lets oil bypass the oil filter completely when filter develops excessive back pressure. So when the filter decided that it didn’t want to filter my oil anymore it let it bypass the filter. At this point the shiny chunks of metal in my oil pan are now in my main oil system. I found little bearing chunks in all of my mains bearing, rod bearings and my oil jet bolts were completely clogged closed . Luckily the vtec solenoid has a screen in it, that helped keep particles from entering the head.
As you can see the motor is out of the car. All of the other parts aside from the crank were undamaged, I am going to clean the block out, and reassamble as soon as I find a crank, If you know anybody with an extra, let me know.
Hey Artisan the filter is why it spun... If the oil feed system builds up to much pressure the relief valve on the pump with just push it back in to the pan... however the oil filter only allows oil to bypass if pressure is to low so that it can build it back up the bypass valve in that filter is held closed by high pressure and open when pressure is low (or so I have been taught, I am attending Wyotech right now and if I am not mistaken that is how the oil feed system works).... so the filter itself (and you are right about them being crappy I used to run one and it caused some damage on the top end) is ass backwards from the OEM filter, and caused your problem... And say hello to boost creep kinda happens in extreme colds
I am shocked that it didnt do more damage then the bearing spin.. Other than that the motor project looks great man
. Luckily the vtec solenoid has a screen in it, that helped keep particles from entering the head. 
That sucks! Sorry to see the damage, but at least it is a relatively inexpensive fix.