I need some advice for my '00. I'm slowly but surely working to go FI. I am replacing the 2-hole banjo bolts to the 4-hole design at my next oil change. I also intend to replace my spring retainers to the 2002+ design soon.

Questions are as follows:

1) What kind of wear should I look for when I replace my banjo bolts? Anything indicative of a worn engine?

2) How much should I expect to spend to have someone replace my retainers? I realize that all shops charge different $ per hour so total # of hours to expect is okay.

3) Stock clutch is almost worn out. Is the HTG OEM disc/tob & ACT pp the way to go? (I expect to go 300whp w/ the SOS kit. Possible stage 2 upgrade down the road.)

4) Should I address any other issues before I install a SC? I'm planning to replace the plugs when I go FI, but should I do anything else? Is the timing chain still okay for the added abuse?

5) I'm @ 93k, is it too late to boost safely? I've run Mobil 1 full synthetic as did the previous owner with absolutely no burning or leaking. I've heard that a lot of people have had less luck with this brand, so is this an indication of a tightly sealed, happy engine? (and no, i'm not interested in your opinion on oil! )

Any first-hand experience would be most appreciated.

 

When I got the SOS kit it recommended you send your fuel injectors to RC engineering to be cleaned and balanced if your car had more than 60,000 miles on it. I did and if you choose next day shipping they will be back in 3 days most likely.

 

LOL I was just about to write how much I dislike Mobil 1 till I got to the bottom of your thread. It ate a few tensioners on me and once I switched oil the problem mysteriously went away.

Go for a competition clutch over the ACT. Inline Pro has them on sale right now in the engine group buy section.

You wont be happy with 300 hp, just go for the gusto off the bat and its less money in the long run. Ive gone Comptech supercharged, then Greddy turbo and now Inline Pro turbo..

 

As far as the banjo bolt Q I think the best way to look at the walls of the cylinders to try and get a rough estimate on engine health, also have a look in the oil pan for oil buildup and metal fragments then just clean till it's shiny

Looking to do the replacement of the bolts too, just wandering about the retainers and springs though, didn't inlinepro do a set? I was going to purchase them but they don't seem to be on the website anymore... so where are youo getting yours from?

 

Thanks for the information thus far. I am switching to the OEM v2 retainers that came out at some point in the 2002 model year. Several threads have said that this is the best way to go and will resist other types of failures found in harder alloys (titanium, etc.) I just wish I knew what a fair price is on this service... Anyone???

Kev, you might be right but I'm trying to be realistic about how much my motor can take without turning into a money pit. The boost bug has infected my stepdad, who has a 350z that has seen several rounds of upgrades to its current 480 whp. That much power seems useless on his car as traction is an issue at any speed. Also, I PM'd Ya to see about the Comp Clutch. Thanks for the tip, that is a much better price and HP rating than the HTG setup.

 

Anyone? Advice???

 

I am changing clutch, diff fluid, trans fluid, plugs, VA, supra PCV..

Edit: add coolant flush

 

What is a VA? Supra PCV... I haven't heard of this before. I assume it is the PCV from the turbo'd Supra? Does it have a check valve in it or something so you don't need to run krankvents? What year model do you use?

Thanks.

 

VA- valve adjustment , while in there will also inspect valvetrain for any stress

Supra PCV - use search for more info

MY2002