Put the blower unit on WITHOUT the intake pipe and just drive it on stock injectors and Stock computer till you get to Ptuning. Then have them swap in the injectors and Emanage Ultimate. It will cause no harm to do this.

That should be your plan of attack on your current parts list.

 

speaking based on my experience of course. Have been told by my tuner if i wanted more boost a standalone would be required. But i totally agree with you with the tune being spot on instead of being too concerned with boost.

 

[QUOTE=TRBOKEV,Nov 9 2010, 03:25 PM] Put the blower unit on WITHOUT the intake pipe and just drive it on stock injectors and Stock computer till you get to Ptuning.

 

 

You can put the supercharger IN the car with the belt on and disconnect the intake pipe/aftercooler to your intake.. (you dont want to build boost) Put the fuel pump in also.

When you get to Ptuning all you really should have to do is put the Ultimate and injectors in and tune the car and connect the piping/aftercooler. Ptuning is a great shop IMO and they are a very good emanage ultimate tuning.

 

I have a FMIC btw, not the aftercooler. IDK if that makes a difference or not...supposedly I have to get the 3.5" pulley and a new belt because the FMIC will lose 3-4 PSI. All I am really trying to do is boost ~8 psi for a reliable DD

 

This thread would confuse the F out of me if I didn't know what I was doing... and make me do allot of extra work that isn't needed. First off you don't need to run the E-mange if your not ready to invest in that stage yet. I will tell you that if you have the non adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator from VT its crap... becuase it has no fuel correction adjustment, its pre set and usually runs too lean, it would be a nightmare to try and find the right boost amount to run safely wile trying to guess what to compensate for with your fmic with this fpr. VT now makes an adjustable rate fuel pressure regulator with a few other adjustments, Its a bit expensive if you ask me and I have not run one so i do not know if its fuel curve is set up for an SC S2000, I will tell you that the adjustable Comptech FPR works well and would suite your needs just fine with your stock injectors so I recommend ordering one of these from CT-Engineering, and specify you want one for an ap2. Its got steeper fuel ramp up over the ap1 frp for more boost.

The black box which retards a small amount of timing is just not needed at 8psi or less I have discovered to be on the safe side with a base A/C. Considering you are running an fmic will definitely make it obsolete by your cooler IAT. With a goal of netting 7psi and utilizing a CT FPR and no black box you will effectively be running a base comptech kit with an extra 1psi ...which your stock injectors will support. You can expect 300-320whp with this configuration.

You can hook the entire SC kit up and simply remove the SC belt and run it all day long safely if needed to the tuner or wherever. Don't remove piping or any of that crap. The base system is designed to work if you break a belt, so run it that way. There was a point in my early days of running the CT kit that I was getting premature belt wear from a misaligned idle pulley, and I would run the kit for weeks fully in tacked without a belt until I ironed out the issue... so don't worry about that. With the fmic it will feel a little more boggy since your intake flow is congested over a normal N/A is all.

 

Wow this was really helpful. So you're saying with the stock ecu, fuel pressure regulator (no FMU), no black box, a smaller pulley (3.5", 4" belt) the car will run completely fine and I will be able to boost safely? That's crazy. It's not that I don't want to get it tuned right away, I just want to be on the safe side driving the car for the time being (it could be 2 weeks or maybe even a month before I get it tuned).


What about the IP fuel pressure regulator instead? http://www.inlinepro.com/s1/p-29-fuelab-51...-regulator.aspx


And yea, since I don't know what I'm doing this is starting to confused the F out of me

 

I know.. it could seem a little overwhelming at first, especially if you’re getting 5 different recommendations. I can’t bear to watch you flailing around anymore. Just go easy on me in the politics forum is all I ask lol

Yes, but you do need to install that MAP clamp device of some sort to hide boost from the ecu when you do put the SC belt on, you have several options today. I forget if you mentioned that you have this already or not. Run the VT one, or you can get the spacer/missing link they call it, which mounts simply under your MAP sensor, some guys have reported corky running with these though. I run the old splice in to your harness type from the old CT kits ...which has worked great for many years, but you might want to shy away from if you don't like splicing/soldering a few wires into your ecu harness. If you really want to invest in this level of kit to maximize its power throughout the rpm range and knock several birds out with one stone. Ct-engineering and SOS both offer a pnp non adjustable piggy back device now which lowers vtec in the 4500rpm range, it adjust/corrects the fuel curve for this in a more refined way in combination with the adjustable fpr that they provide …which I recommended you get before, and it hides boost from the map all in one simply installed pnp box. I personally have been using an old vafc to do a similar thing, but i'm just throwing out some options for you to think about.

I cringe when I hear guys talking about getting an E-manage tune, its such a finicky device, its hard to find a good tuner for one, and whether you do or not, you are still guaranteed a hefty tuning fee for one. $500-800. Some guys that have had some success with the E-manage are savvy guys that have taken the time to learn how to tune it themselves and there is a big learning curve there to really dial it in. You can expect several return visits to your tuner to deal with issues. But relying on OEM and the SOS/Comptech base systems have really proven their reliability. VT is a bit convoluted and just not as dialed in with there base kits, they are behind the curve in SC kits today, id just shy away from there stuff as far as base engine management goes.

And I say no on the IP regulator. I don't think it is a rising rate anyway. Even if it was, there is no guarantee its fuel curve will work with a SC s2000. Stick with what I know works the best, which is the CT FPR

 

what can i say, i definitely agree with you on that. Emanage's basics is not really hard to learn but it is not 100% on the spot which in turn makes the learning curve harder. We constantly retune my EMU every 3 months. I've been so involved with the retunes for the last year that I myself know the telltale signs of a worsening tune (due to weather changes) and can do adjustments on the go. The OP needs to prioritize things, dial in the car at stock boost then progress from there. Almost every vortech/comptech owner starts at stock boost get's dialed in before they start messing with it.