Need Help W/ Supercharger
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From: MD
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Nov 10 2010, 10:00 AM
I know.. it could seem a little overwhelming at first, especially if you’re getting 5 different recommendations. I can’t bear to watch you flailing around anymore. Just go easy on me in the politics forum is all I ask lol
Yes, but you do need to install that MAP clamp device of some sort to hide boost from the ecu when you do put the SC belt on, you have several options today. I forget if you mentioned that you have this already or not. Run the VT one, or you can get the spacer/missing link they call it, which mounts simply under your MAP sensor, some guys have reported corky running with these though. I run the old splice in to your harness type from the old CT kits ...which has worked great for many years, but you might want to shy away from if you don't like splicing/soldering a few wires into your ecu harness. If you really want to invest in this level of kit to maximize its power throughout the rpm range and knock several birds out with one stone. Ct-engineering and SOS both offer a pnp non adjustable piggy back device now which lowers vtec in the 4500rpm range, it adjust/corrects the fuel curve for this in a more refined way in combination with the adjustable fpr that they provide …which I recommended you get before, and it hides boost from the map all in one simply installed pnp box. I personally have been using an old vafc to do a similar thing, but i'm just throwing out some options for you to think about.
I cringe when I hear guys talking about getting an E-manage tune, its such a finicky device, its hard to find a good tuner for one, and whether you do or not, you are still guaranteed a hefty tuning fee for one. $500-800. Some guys that have had some success with the E-manage are savvy guys that have taken the time to learn how to tune it themselves and there is a big learning curve there to really dial it in. You can expect several return visits to your tuner to deal with issues. But relying on OEM and the SOS/Comptech base systems have really proven their reliability. VT is a bit convoluted and just not as dialed in with there base kits, they are behind the curve in SC kits today, id just shy away from there stuff as far as base engine management goes.
And I say no on the IP regulator. I don't think it is a rising rate anyway. Even if it was, there is no guarantee its fuel curve will work with a SC s2000. Stick with what I know works the best, which is the CT FPR
Yes, but you do need to install that MAP clamp device of some sort to hide boost from the ecu when you do put the SC belt on, you have several options today. I forget if you mentioned that you have this already or not. Run the VT one, or you can get the spacer/missing link they call it, which mounts simply under your MAP sensor, some guys have reported corky running with these though. I run the old splice in to your harness type from the old CT kits ...which has worked great for many years, but you might want to shy away from if you don't like splicing/soldering a few wires into your ecu harness. If you really want to invest in this level of kit to maximize its power throughout the rpm range and knock several birds out with one stone. Ct-engineering and SOS both offer a pnp non adjustable piggy back device now which lowers vtec in the 4500rpm range, it adjust/corrects the fuel curve for this in a more refined way in combination with the adjustable fpr that they provide …which I recommended you get before, and it hides boost from the map all in one simply installed pnp box. I personally have been using an old vafc to do a similar thing, but i'm just throwing out some options for you to think about.
I cringe when I hear guys talking about getting an E-manage tune, its such a finicky device, its hard to find a good tuner for one, and whether you do or not, you are still guaranteed a hefty tuning fee for one. $500-800. Some guys that have had some success with the E-manage are savvy guys that have taken the time to learn how to tune it themselves and there is a big learning curve there to really dial it in. You can expect several return visits to your tuner to deal with issues. But relying on OEM and the SOS/Comptech base systems have really proven their reliability. VT is a bit convoluted and just not as dialed in with there base kits, they are behind the curve in SC kits today, id just shy away from there stuff as far as base engine management goes.
And I say no on the IP regulator. I don't think it is a rising rate anyway. Even if it was, there is no guarantee its fuel curve will work with a SC s2000. Stick with what I know works the best, which is the CT FPR
. I guess I will sell the EMU because it doesn't sound like something this setup would work well with, and just buy a EMS down the road. I will sell it, get the CT FPR (might need a link to specific one...), and get that non adjustable piggy back (need link to that as well so I get the right one).I'll get the CT FPR, and the new piggyback. I'm assuming since the PnP piggy is non-adjustable that probably means you can't tune it right
. All I want is this damn thing to run for a little safely until I have money to get a EMS and tune it....everyone is throwing so many different names and things at me I am getting lost 
Btw, what about a MAP clamp? Does that come with the kit?
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The MAP clamp is part of the non adjustable pnp piggy back. The rising rate FPR is adjustable. Both of these units together will cost you about $700, which will be a reliable long term and trouble free set up, unlike the E-manage....which will cost you this much for just a tune and a headache.
Talk to Chris at Scienceofspeed.com Tell him your an s2ki member and was recommended to get these devises to support your set up. I would even ask him if he could float you a bit of a deal on these items, couldn't hurt. You tell him you need the FVM piggy back from their base kit, and the ap2 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
Talk to Chris at Scienceofspeed.com Tell him your an s2ki member and was recommended to get these devises to support your set up. I would even ask him if he could float you a bit of a deal on these items, couldn't hurt. You tell him you need the FVM piggy back from their base kit, and the ap2 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
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From: MD
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Nov 10 2010, 07:22 PM
The MAP clamp is part of the non adjustable pnp piggy back. The rising rate FPR is adjustable. Both of these units together will cost you about $700, which will be a reliable long term and trouble free set up, unlike the E-manage....which will cost you this much for just a tune and a headache.
Talk to Chris at Scienceofspeed.com Tell him your an s2ki member and was recommended to get these devises to support your set up. I would even ask him if he could float you a bit of a deal on these items, couldn't hurt. You tell him you need the FVM piggy back from their base kit, and the ap2 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
Talk to Chris at Scienceofspeed.com Tell him your an s2ki member and was recommended to get these devises to support your set up. I would even ask him if he could float you a bit of a deal on these items, couldn't hurt. You tell him you need the FVM piggy back from their base kit, and the ap2 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
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[QUOTE=Angerman,Nov 10 2010, 08:24 PM] Omg man...you're giving me as much as a headache as the turbo setup as I was trying to work with.....does this dude have a personal email or am I going to have to go through the company?
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From: Greensburg, PA
If the Science of Speed piggy back unit and the adjustable FPR cost $700 why not save that $700 add it to the money you will get from selling the emanage? I would think that you would have more than enough to pick up a used EMS plus a bit leftover to go towards injectors.
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Nov 10 2010, 02:18 AM
The black box which retards a small amount of timing is just not needed at 8psi or less I have discovered to be on the safe side with a base A/C. Considering you are running an fmic will definitely make it obsolete by your cooler IAT.
i mean stock timing is around 26-28 up top! at 8 psi i am down in the 20 range, at my current 10psi im in the 18 range on pump, and 20 on meth/water.
has anyone logged a car running 8psi on stock timing, pump gas no meth/water, and seen what timing its running, and what kinda knock volts, knock retard its getting?
everyone has to remember, the stock ecu will pull timing based on knock. so yeah, run it without the timing retard box, but the ecu might still be retarding it becuase its too much timing!
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From: Harvest, AL
I still don't understand why you would sell your EMU when it will do everything you need and more just to spend $700 to buy something that isn't as robust as you already have
I guess I am biased since one of my best friends is probably the best EMU tuner in the South.
I guess I am biased since one of my best friends is probably the best EMU tuner in the South.
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by K-Lo
13.5lbs that's the ceiling of an emanage ultimate's safe tune.
The ULT is only limited by the maximum "stable" reading the
OEM MAP sensor can get if using the OEM MAP
or
4.5V on the Greddy pressure sensor which is equivalent to 43.5 Psi (gauge)
Note the Greddy pressure sensor can go to 5.0V but as with any sensor when you get close to the limits of the sensor readings become increasingly inaccurate
Now would I want to tune using the ULT up to 43.5 psi no at that stage a full standalone is a better option.
From tuning a multiple ULTs I would say where I feel comfortable using the ULT up to would be about 15psi. After that I feel the need to have knock control function/feedback and the ability to change spark dwell times becomes a critical and necessary tuning features to have in your tuning solution ensure the maximum safe tune.
Originally Posted by K-Lo
We constantly retune my EMU every 3 months.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky
reliable long term and trouble free set up, unlike the E-manage....which will cost you this much for just a tune and a headache.
Originally Posted by Kermdaddy
I guess I am biased since one of my best friends is probably the best EMU tuner in the South.
My recommendation is keep the ULT however you need to find a local tuner that has sufficient knowledge with the ULT to set it up and tune it properly. And I would go ahead and get 650cc injectors because I can see you wanting more power after a while. LOL
I have even set up “basemaps” for the SOT kits ( with the Greddy pressure sensor and W/B feedback) that turned out to be better tunes and make more power then after someone that “knew” the ult tried to improve the base map LOL.
The SOT kit with the ULT is my area of expertise.
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From: MD
Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,Nov 11 2010, 08:38 AM
Thanks Kerm
My recommendation is keep the ULT however you need to find a local tuner that has sufficient knowledge with the ULT to set it up and tune it properly. And I would go ahead and get 650cc injectors because I can see you wanting more power after a while. LOL
I have even set up “basemaps” for the SOT kits ( with the Greddy pressure sensor and W/B feedback) that turned out to be better tunes and make more power then after someone that “knew” the ult tried to improve the base map LOL.
The SOT kit with the ULT is my area of expertise.
My recommendation is keep the ULT however you need to find a local tuner that has sufficient knowledge with the ULT to set it up and tune it properly. And I would go ahead and get 650cc injectors because I can see you wanting more power after a while. LOL
I have even set up “basemaps” for the SOT kits ( with the Greddy pressure sensor and W/B feedback) that turned out to be better tunes and make more power then after someone that “knew” the ult tried to improve the base map LOL.
The SOT kit with the ULT is my area of expertise.
I couldn't find anything on a w/b feedback
I guess I will keep the emanage and drive it to Ptuning to get it tuned since Toan knows his stuff on EMU, just going to have to stay out of boost.
Btw, I have Siemens 675cc injectors