No one experiment with propane injection yet?
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From: dfw
werd
at one point in time after being a little rough with my tank i had knocked one of the gauges posted in the picture hard enough to spin it almost 90*
i, like an idiot just used a wrench to tighten it back and went inside to go to sleep
the next morning i woke up, sat in my car, and could smell the distinct odor of propane
!!!!
i went to the back, opened the trunk with the key (not the electric release!) and removed the tank
i left the trunk and both doors open to dissipate any gas that had leaked out and tore the entire valve assembly down and reassembled it with ARP teflon paste instead of the shitty dollar store teflon tape that the original kit owner had used to assemble the kit
never had another issue with leakage.
at one point in time after being a little rough with my tank i had knocked one of the gauges posted in the picture hard enough to spin it almost 90*
i, like an idiot just used a wrench to tighten it back and went inside to go to sleep
the next morning i woke up, sat in my car, and could smell the distinct odor of propane
!!!!
i went to the back, opened the trunk with the key (not the electric release!) and removed the tank
i left the trunk and both doors open to dissipate any gas that had leaked out and tore the entire valve assembly down and reassembled it with ARP teflon paste instead of the shitty dollar store teflon tape that the original kit owner had used to assemble the kit
never had another issue with leakage.
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From: Mandeville, La
Originally Posted by Ness2000,Nov 3 2008, 05:12 PM
Called my buddy who just sold his diesel performance shop. He's getting me a wholesale quote on a non vehicle specific kit, and getting back to me.
So far my winter list is getting longer:
Valves, springs, retainers, headgasket, 3.2" or 3.0" pulley (undecided) and now propane!
Any thoughts on hitting 400hp with ~10.5-11psi through a CTSC?
So far my winter list is getting longer:
Valves, springs, retainers, headgasket, 3.2" or 3.0" pulley (undecided) and now propane!
Any thoughts on hitting 400hp with ~10.5-11psi through a CTSC?
Let us know!
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
Originally Posted by S2krazy2,Nov 3 2008, 06:46 PM
It's quite simple... I don't know exactly how you couldn't understand what I said. Let me clear it up for you:
1. There was a picture posted earlier of a car destroyed by a tank of compressed gas. It was destroyed by an N2O (nitrous oxide) tank, NOT LP (liquid propane).
2. There is a huge difference between an N2O tank and an LP tank.
3. A N2O tank holds compressed gas. Compressed gas exerts tremendous force on the container in which it is held.
4. LP tanks, on the other hand, are very thin (in comparison to an N2O tank) because they contain propane in the form of liquid, NOT GAS. Liquid exerts very little force on the container in which it is held.
5. Therefore, a punctured LP tank wouldn't cause nearly the amount of damage as a N2O tank would. In fact, the LP would just drain out without expolsive force.
How can I make it any clearer for you?
1. There was a picture posted earlier of a car destroyed by a tank of compressed gas. It was destroyed by an N2O (nitrous oxide) tank, NOT LP (liquid propane).
2. There is a huge difference between an N2O tank and an LP tank.
3. A N2O tank holds compressed gas. Compressed gas exerts tremendous force on the container in which it is held.
4. LP tanks, on the other hand, are very thin (in comparison to an N2O tank) because they contain propane in the form of liquid, NOT GAS. Liquid exerts very little force on the container in which it is held.
5. Therefore, a punctured LP tank wouldn't cause nearly the amount of damage as a N2O tank would. In fact, the LP would just drain out without expolsive force.
How can I make it any clearer for you?
Both are gasses compressed to liquid and stored as such.
N2O has more vapor pressure at atmospheric temperatures is probably what you are trying to say.
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From: Mandeville, La
Originally Posted by Ness2000,Nov 4 2008, 10:31 AM
S2krazy2, lets talk about how and what I'm going to need to build all of this instead 
Anyway,
As stated above, there are not many companies around that make these kits for a non-diesel application. The problem seems to be the controller box (IMO, specifically the fail-safes).
That's all I can offer you.
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From: dfw
Originally Posted by Ness2000,Nov 4 2008, 12:31 PM
S2krazy2, lets talk about how and what I'm going to need to build all of this instead
replace it with braided stainless instead. a small dia braided stainless line (i think mine is -4 AN)
much safer when you have to route this under the car. i routed mine *through* the framerail... nothing is going to hurt that line unless my car is sawed in half
not likely
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