O'Malley's Winter build
Awesome work, i have been meaning to start mine but have had no time! and it also sucks that i have to start all over again from scratch since my last car i had just finished before i got rid of it! This is definitely motivation for me to find some free time soon!
Originally Posted by StocS2k,Jan 24 2011, 01:26 PM
For the fuse box to be there did you have to extend a lot of wires.
Well there is the passenger fuse box and there is the drivers fusebox. The passenger fusebox itself didnt require any wires to be extended. The drivers fusebox needed two wires to be extended because they were short. If you follow the pics you can see the two wires I had to extend.
Apart from the fuseboxes you will have to extend other wires such as power steering wires, ABS wires, wiper motor wires, coolant temp wire, rad fan wires.
It really depends how much you want to tuck. If your just looking to move the fuseboxes, not a whole lot of rewiring is needed.
Got some parts and a little bit of work done on the weekend.
Big thanks to ghettocrx for the quality A/C relocation kit it's awesome quality for those thinking about getting it!
I also installed my alloy metals heater core valve bracket. The hose is fully kinked though so I have to find a replacement hose unless you guys had a solution?


Also got my CFT catch can mounted. Awesome looking unit and has both a catch can and coolant overflow integrated. I may get an addition -10 fitting welded on though. We'll see how things go
Big thanks to ghettocrx for the quality A/C relocation kit it's awesome quality for those thinking about getting it!
I also installed my alloy metals heater core valve bracket. The hose is fully kinked though so I have to find a replacement hose unless you guys had a solution?


Also got my CFT catch can mounted. Awesome looking unit and has both a catch can and coolant overflow integrated. I may get an addition -10 fitting welded on though. We'll see how things go
Originally Posted by o'malley_808,Jan 24 2011, 07:41 PM
Thanks for the tip Adam, does AEM use the pressure sensor at all? Just don't want to remove it if for some reason my tuner has it enabled? Or where can I check in the settings?
Well there is the passenger fuse box and there is the drivers fusebox. The passenger fusebox itself didnt require any wires to be extended. The drivers fusebox needed two wires to be extended because they were short. If you follow the pics you can see the two wires I had to extend.
Apart from the fuseboxes you will have to extend other wires such as power steering wires, ABS wires, wiper motor wires, coolant temp wire, rad fan wires.
It really depends how much you want to tuck. If your just looking to move the fuseboxes, not a whole lot of rewiring is needed.
Well there is the passenger fuse box and there is the drivers fusebox. The passenger fusebox itself didnt require any wires to be extended. The drivers fusebox needed two wires to be extended because they were short. If you follow the pics you can see the two wires I had to extend.
Apart from the fuseboxes you will have to extend other wires such as power steering wires, ABS wires, wiper motor wires, coolant temp wire, rad fan wires.
It really depends how much you want to tuck. If your just looking to move the fuseboxes, not a whole lot of rewiring is needed.
That is a full write-up I did, should be very easy to follow.
I cant decide where to put my boost solenoid. I want to mount it on the other side of the firewall or on the other side of the fender with just the quick connect fittings sticking out. It wouldnt be so bad if I didnt have so many oem holes everywhere but I looked at it for an hour and couldnt decide. Any suggestions? I dont wanna clutter up the bay after spending so much time removing everything...


Good question. I ended up mounting mine to my heater hose bracket, and have a vacuum manifold mounted on the pass fender there, so all my lines were really short and coupled together.
Is there room in the wiper area?
Also, I noticed are you planning on referencing your boost signal from the turbo compressor housing?
I typically pull mine from the intake manifold and plug that fitting.
Is there room in the wiper area?
Also, I noticed are you planning on referencing your boost signal from the turbo compressor housing?
I typically pull mine from the intake manifold and plug that fitting.
just fyi, If you put it directly on the firewall, you will hear the annoying "ticking" noise in the cabin.
I ended up tying mine on top of the EGR blocking plate with some dynomat.
I suggest putting a piece of rubber between the solenoid and metal. My brilliant dynomat idea left a black melted blob.
I'll probably move it again.
I ended up tying mine on top of the EGR blocking plate with some dynomat.
I suggest putting a piece of rubber between the solenoid and metal. My brilliant dynomat idea left a black melted blob.
I'll probably move it again.
Thanks for the heads up on the ticking. I'll try to keep it out of the wiper well then. And yeah Adam I am referencing off the compressor housing just cause I don't want lines running all over the place. If you look close in the first pic you can see I already have a quick connect fitting on the housing. I'm kind of debating putting the solenoid under the battery tray area (horizontal to the ground) and putting the fittings in the bay. Thoughts?
[QUOTE=Sarek,Feb 11 2011, 01:22 AM]just fyi, If you put it directly on the firewall, you will hear the annoying "ticking" noise in the cabin.
I ended up tying mine on top of the EGR blocking plate with some dynomat.
I suggest putting a piece of rubber between the solenoid and metal. My brilliant dynomat idea left a black melted blob.
I ended up tying mine on top of the EGR blocking plate with some dynomat.
I suggest putting a piece of rubber between the solenoid and metal. My brilliant dynomat idea left a black melted blob.


