O'Malley's Winter build
Originally Posted by siadam,Feb 11 2011, 07:58 AM
If it's clicking like that it's not setup right. I don't remember, but you have to set the "active" duty cycle to come on at a certain psi, so it just doesn't sit there clicking. Mine did that @ first on my 30r setup, and I looked into it. Took the information to my tuner and next go around we fixed it.
Originally Posted by siadam,Feb 11 2011, 06:58 AM
John: I just ran one line from the intake manifold between the motor/firewall and to my vacuum manifold. Then I only had the lines from there. The reason I don't reference from the turbo is b/c you don't know what boost is actually going into the IM. You will get some pressure drop across the board from piping/cooler/etc.
Off the IM, you know exactly what the motor is seeing. I think it's easier to understand if you have a boost leak as well, as you will see IAT's start to rise from the turbo working harder to maintain 15psi for example.
Just my opinion though.
Off the IM, you know exactly what the motor is seeing. I think it's easier to understand if you have a boost leak as well, as you will see IAT's start to rise from the turbo working harder to maintain 15psi for example.
Just my opinion though.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/turbochargi...should-ran.html
Originally Posted by Chubby Ninja,Feb 11 2011, 05:24 PM
I was talking to geoff at Full race and he used to run it the same way off the manifold on his r14. He kept going through diaphrams. After talking with tial they found the issue he had was the vaccuum from the manifold was wearing out the diaphrams. They switched the vaccuum source to the compressor and he said he hasnt had a problem since, and thats how he recommends the wastegates be set up now.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/turbochargi...should-ran.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/turbochargi...should-ran.html
Finished up my quick connect fittings for the boost solenoid. After a lot of thought and looking at placement I decided rather than make new holes to cover up an existing hole by using a custom plate with two bulkhead fittings. I think it came out pretty nicely but your comments are welcome 







You can see from this picture that the wire has plenty of slack to reach inside the drivers fender. How you decide to extend it back to the passenger fusebox is up to you. I just wanted everything hidden as much as possible. Next winter I may tackle hiding the main engine harness a little better but this is plenty for now.

Here is the alternator wire with the end cut off and the red wire is the wire which is going through the wiper compartment over to the pass fusebox. I havnt decided how I want to connect them but I want something I can disconnect in the event I have to pull the motor it isnt a PITA.

Here you can see the red wire on the pass side as it comes out of the wiper compartment and feeds into the fusebox.






