OVERHEATING in the desert
Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Aug 4 2009, 01:33 AM
Its entirely different. Hondabond is an RTV (room temperature vulcanization) product. What most call, silicone. It seals well, and is for certain uses. NOT for this particular scenario.
Once you study curil vs hondabond you will have an epiphany.
Once you study curil vs hondabond you will have an epiphany.

No meaningful difference . . .
Hondabond HT and Curil have identical service temp and application uses. Both are flexible after cure. HT uses non-acidic silicone and Curil uses a resin - so what.
Seems like Hondabond HT wold be just fine, as would Curil - nothing special about sealing to high-temp plastic surface, doesn't matter if the gasket is delrin, teflon, torlon, techtron, etc. I think I would actually use a silicone due to the thermal expansion of the plastic surface.
If I'm missing something please share...
Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Aug 4 2009, 01:30 AM
A picture of your hondata gasket please? And "block test" results.
Was there fuel in the cooling system, verifying that the head gasket was blown?
Or was a monster assumption made as it looks, and amateurs began ripping the car apart not knowing what to be looking for.
As i told you before, when the car was run at 1 million degrees, the bolts were pushed past their holding capacity, IE stretched. SO when we did check them they were loose. Of course coolant will be in the #4 runner, its RIGHT next to the cooling passage.
Also if the head gasket was blown, and hot combustion gases were mixing with the coolant near that passage, the first part effected would be the gasket, melted and blown away under the passage.
Was there fuel in the cooling system, verifying that the head gasket was blown?
Or was a monster assumption made as it looks, and amateurs began ripping the car apart not knowing what to be looking for.
As i told you before, when the car was run at 1 million degrees, the bolts were pushed past their holding capacity, IE stretched. SO when we did check them they were loose. Of course coolant will be in the #4 runner, its RIGHT next to the cooling passage.
Also if the head gasket was blown, and hot combustion gases were mixing with the coolant near that passage, the first part effected would be the gasket, melted and blown away under the passage.
What happens is that the pos plastic gasket can support some torque at lower temp's but as you increase temperature the creep rate of plastics skyrocket. So even if you do not overheat your motor, the plastic gasket will still creep and the bolts will appear loose, when in fact they have not moved at all, rather the shitty gasket has shrunk from material creep under torque.
And it gets worse, if you do overheat your motor, the plastic becomes liquid and begins to squeeze out of the gap between your head and IM, at this point water from your cooling system floods the closest cylinder and you destroy yout motor! Wow this plastic pos gasket is sounding better and better, huh. Especially for forced induction guys whose motors run hotter anyway!
That being said , I would never use this pos gasket, not even on my lawnmower. Just go back to the stock IM gasket, and call it a day. the 1 or 2 hp that this gasket makes is not worth the headaches.
For those of you who dont know what creep is here is the wiki link.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)
Notice in the article that plastics can creep at room temerature, just imagine what happens at 300 degrees!!
Originally Posted by KewlWhip,Aug 4 2009, 09:41 AM
Juntuned,
I saw you listed your KW in the for sale forum. Thinking about a change?
-Chris
I saw you listed your KW in the for sale forum. Thinking about a change?
-Chris
I think too many stories like this one is hurting. And people are going to be even more leery of buying the kit that some people believe killed the sellers motor in the first place.
Originally Posted by S2Kart,Aug 4 2009, 09:26 AM
Since you won't tell, I did "study".
No meaningful difference . . .
Hondabond HT and Curil have identical service temp and application uses. Both are flexible after cure. HT uses non-acidic silicone and Curil uses a resin - so what.
Seems like Hondabond HT wold be just fine, as would Curil - nothing special about sealing to high-temp plastic surface, doesn't matter if the gasket is delrin, teflon, torlon, techtron, etc. I think I would actually use a silicone due to the thermal expansion of the plastic surface.
If I'm missing something please share...
No meaningful difference . . .
Hondabond HT and Curil have identical service temp and application uses. Both are flexible after cure. HT uses non-acidic silicone and Curil uses a resin - so what.
Seems like Hondabond HT wold be just fine, as would Curil - nothing special about sealing to high-temp plastic surface, doesn't matter if the gasket is delrin, teflon, torlon, techtron, etc. I think I would actually use a silicone due to the thermal expansion of the plastic surface.
If I'm missing something please share...

Originally Posted by Artisan7471,Aug 4 2009, 10:05 AM
Wtf are you taking about S000Nvegas, If you think that the steel mainfold bolts will reach their creep tempeture before the plastic gasket does, you are smoking dope.
What happens is that the pos plastic gasket can support some torque at lower temp's but as you increase temperature the creep rate of plastics skyrocket. So even if you do not overheat your motor, the plastic gasket will still creep and the bolts will appear loose, when in fact they have not moved at all, rather the shitty gasket has shrunk from material creep under torque.
And it gets worse, if you do overheat your motor, the plastic becomes liquid and begins to squeeze out of the gap between your head and IM, at this point water from your cooling system floods the closest cylinder and you destroy yout motor! Wow this plastic pos gasket is sounding better and better, huh. Especially for forced induction guys whose motors run hotter anyway!
That being said , I would never use this pos gasket, not even on my lawnmower. Just go back to the stock IM gasket, and call it a day. the 1 or 2 hp that this gasket makes is not worth the headaches.
For those of you who dont know what creep is here is the wiki link.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)
Notice in the article that plastics can creep at room temerature, just imagine what happens at 300 degrees!!
What happens is that the pos plastic gasket can support some torque at lower temp's but as you increase temperature the creep rate of plastics skyrocket. So even if you do not overheat your motor, the plastic gasket will still creep and the bolts will appear loose, when in fact they have not moved at all, rather the shitty gasket has shrunk from material creep under torque.
And it gets worse, if you do overheat your motor, the plastic becomes liquid and begins to squeeze out of the gap between your head and IM, at this point water from your cooling system floods the closest cylinder and you destroy yout motor! Wow this plastic pos gasket is sounding better and better, huh. Especially for forced induction guys whose motors run hotter anyway!
That being said , I would never use this pos gasket, not even on my lawnmower. Just go back to the stock IM gasket, and call it a day. the 1 or 2 hp that this gasket makes is not worth the headaches.
For those of you who dont know what creep is here is the wiki link.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)
Notice in the article that plastics can creep at room temerature, just imagine what happens at 300 degrees!!
Yes it got hot. According to your theory, the gasket shrunk in thickness .020" ?
Thats all that can explain the bolts being 2+ turns loose by what youve just said.
While im not here to say i know the exact tensile strength of the bolts, i would agree with you that the bolts are far stronger than the gasket.
BUT, you do realize that as temperature rises bolt torque begins to rise dramatically.
*example* s2k intake manifold bolts factory torque is 16 ft lbs. I torque them to 20 ft lbs knowing the gasket will "bed in" within 150 miles. (thus the 2nd torque regimen) That factory bolt will snap clean off at about 30 ft lbs. I havent tested the growth rate on this setup, but if you use other examples you will see, the bolts stretched..plain and simple.
Some examples i know by heart, on an aircooled engine, we torque the heads to 15 ft lbs, at full operating temp, that = 80 ft lbs.
Rocker shafts are similar, torque at 15 ft lbs, and they are near 50 at operating temp.
How does this correlate you ask? avg aircooled head temp is 300 degrees.
HMMM what was jacks head at.....300+ without any doubt. So with that growth rate in mind, you could speculate his intake manifold bolts surely cleared 40 ft lbs, probably toward 60 ft lbs.
Now what was that you were saying about the bolts not being able to stretch????
I know youd like to think i speak out my ass, or you can catch me off guard and be the wiser, but i promise you it wont happen. Am i arrogant, no, just passionate about the subject.
Ask for a stock failure thread and you shall receive.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry16830600
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry16830600
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Aug 5 2009, 05:39 PM
Ask for a stock failure thread and you shall receive.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry16830600
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry16830600






