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This sort of sucks, I mean it really sucks for you Jack but I guess its good news for me as I checked my pulley.
First off, let me say that my kit is 100% as KW sent it to me. Nothing has been changed but the anodizing of the IC. I would venture to say my kit has 10k miles maybe even 15k ... I push the car and run it hard too.
From the get go I have been eyeing these pulley failures and I always found that when they failed, something was not as KW had intended. Maybe I am wrong, but all the pulleys that failed were UR or if stock, like Jacks he has been running a 95mm on the blower.
I know Dave you say that the 95 should not matter ... but it does strain it more. The more you spin the more HP that blower requires and therefore strain throgh the system. Now, it should still be whithin the safety factor of the system.
Anyways, I got home looked at my pulley and it was fine. Removed it, cleaned it and it still looked fine. I took some close up pictures and then I noticed a hairline crack starting to spread. I have a microscope at work that takes pictures, I will snap one tomorrow and see whether its a surface crack on the paint or what. See pictures.
I would suggest that whomever has over 10k miles, and does have a long commute, remove it and inspect it well. I personally was lucky as I caught it in time to get another one and not get stranded on my 70 mile commute.
Also, I wonder why the holes are not completely round but have a "straight edge". It does not seem that the straight edge is where the crack originated though.
It may strain it more, but as you mentioned its so minute it shouldnt have any effect.
What im thinking is harmonics. Possibly coupled with the head on the bolt not distributing load correctly. Thus honda changing that bolt out on other models. Watching that little idler thats next to the crank pulley, that sucker bounces like crazy at fixed RPM. Im wondering if that isnt having a shocking effect on the drive. Belt ripple, which is translating back to the WP pulley, which aside from being thin and not meant to carry the extra load, is also not being supported correctly by the head design of the factory bolts.
Someone (KW) or anyone else needs to get ahold of these update bolts and employ them in this situation. With a brand new pulley.
Maybe we can do it on jacks car, as he drives alot of freeway miles. And that seems to be a big factor in this equation.
How did you get to the bottom 3rd bolt on the upper idler bracket the one behind the wp pulley? Did you use an extension and swivel socket, and then align the holes? If that works I feel dumb because I recently had to fuxor with mine
I dont remember, but i know for fact i never removed the WP pulley. I do have some siiick swivels.
I just removed my WP pulley and it is good to go. I have about 25k miles on my kit now. No sign of cracks of any kind. I had also never removed my WP pulley prior to this.
