Why is yours black? Mine is white. I'm starting to think this is what is causing my overheating issues. I need to get my IM off and check it. I've been intermitently overheating every now and then and you can smell a little coolant burning and see a little white smoke in the exhaust. I thought it was a blown HG but now I think it may be the Hondata IM gasket since I've had mine on since 03 and i've been boosted on it since 3000 miles on the car and now it has 13,000 miles. If it's melted or cracked between the coolant blockoff hole and cylinder intake runner like yours, it looks like it would be the problem I'm having. Although I have no signs of external leaking of coolant at the IM like you. Maybe mine is only leaking into the cylinder. Also, I have no signs of coolant getting into the engine oil and the engine still runs great, thus is what makes me wonder if my HG is really blown or not or could it be the Hondata IMG.

 

The older hondata gaskets were white.... the newer ones are blue. Not sure what the difference is. All i know is, alot of engine builders advise against the gasket. It seems the IM needs to constantly be retorqued. Mine were retorqued and still were 3 complete turns loose when the coolant began to leak out. Another lesson leraned if you run this gasket, it cannot take extreme heat. Also just retorque the manifold every so often. I personally dont think I will run this on my next set up, unless I find a higher heat resistant material! hope nothing is wrong with your car due to this!

 

Oh I see.

I'm hoping it is this gasket that has failed on mine and if so I'll just get rid of it and put a stock one back on. BTW, mine never got over 239

 

Theres nothing wrong with the hondata gasket. period.
In jacks case, not only did he have the engine at prob over 300 degrees, but he then had combustion gasses blowing against it. His bolts were loose because of the overheat. Stretched all the bolts.
There is no need for a higher heat material, and you only have to retorque once. Ive checked them at intervals after install, and after first retorque, they never come loose again.

 

Just for you Gmoney.



Do some research on that. Youll be stoked. It "lives" with the part. sick stuff.

 

Is this stuff comparable to Hondabond?

 

well, we made some progress tonight. Day 1 of the teardown/new build! Looks like coolant found its way into the runner closest the firewall. What do you guys think caused this? Could a blown headgasket be causing coolant to literally spray out between the head and manifold like it was doing? Possibly the only problem was the bolts were loose on the intake manifold. The problem obviously arised due to the overheat.... Anyone else have this issue of coolant in the last runner? Any ideas




Teardown begins....

 

A picture of your hondata gasket please? And "block test" results.
Was there fuel in the cooling system, verifying that the head gasket was blown?
Or was a monster assumption made as it looks, and amateurs began ripping the car apart not knowing what to be looking for.

As i told you before, when the car was run at 1 million degrees, the bolts were pushed past their holding capacity, IE stretched. SO when we did check them they were loose. Of course coolant will be in the #4 runner, its RIGHT next to the cooling passage.
Also if the head gasket was blown, and hot combustion gases were mixing with the coolant near that passage, the first part effected would be the gasket, melted and blown away under the passage.

 

Its entirely different. Hondabond is an RTV (room temperature vulcanization) product. What most call, silicone. It seals well, and is for certain uses. NOT for this particular scenario.
Once you study curil vs hondabond you will have an epiphany.

 

Juntuned,
I saw you listed your KW in the for sale forum. Thinking about a change?

-Chris