That is the cog he is talking about. You undo the 3 bolts, remove the alignment pin (seen here in the top center), and rotate the outer gear fully clockwise and reassemble.

 

Yes what he said, thanx.

How do you torque down the studs? put the nut on and then tq it that way, just seems like too much stress.

 

so how far do you rotate the inner gear? and why exactly do you do this at all?

 

CarGuy - How did you settle on 80 lb/ft for your torque spec on the studs? Assuming you used moly lube? How many times did you torque / re-torque before you settled on the final spec? I have read others (successfully) have done it to 110 lb/ft, while others at OEM spec have not fared so well... I am getting ready to do it myself in a month or so, so I was wondering how you settled on your specifications? (It's hard to determine what is "correct" over the internet sometimes) Also, are you getting your head machined?

SPECOPS - You turn the inner gear as FAR clockwise as it will go. This is done because the raised head deck height changes the cam/valve timing ever so slightly due to the stretched cam timing chain. People have had success doing it and not doing it. I think it is more of a precaution than anything. It is debated on whether it would really even change anything, because the overall change in head height is less than 1 link on the timing chain...

Thanks

John

 

[QUOTE=jwa4378,Dec 30 2007, 09:44 AM] CarGuy - How did you settle on 80 lb/ft for your torque spec on the studs?

 

Thanks! I would have clocked the gear the wrong way... It makes sense when you sit and think about what it looks like...

Thanks again!

John

 

updates???

 

I used rubber bands to hold the rocker arms together as opposed to continuously lifting them into place. It helped me save some time and frustration.

 

I'll give that a shot.

 

Pictures of this and more detailed instructions? Im doing this within a week or two as well as a valve adjustment ^_^