Use some rubber bands on the rocker arm assembly when reinstalling, this will save you some time and frustration.




When you reinstall the cog, the TDC marks are not going to be perfectly dead on, so don't freak out. Just make sure it is more clockwise. Should look like this:

 

I just completed installation of my IP 3mm headgasket. It took about 3 and a half hours from the time i pulled the car in the garage to the time i pulled it out. Only part that was a little tricky was the roller rockers, i didnt think to use rubber bands to hold them up so i struggled a little bit. also getting the valve cover on/off was annoying due to clearnace... but im sure there is a trick to that too.

Only thing i did differently was i didnt loosen the valve adjustment screws. when i put it together i checked valve clearances and they seemed fine.

Good job on the writeup!

 

Forgot to mention that i didnt remove the intake manifold. had no problem getting it off with it attached.

also, dont forget there is (3) 10mm bolts on the back of the head, 2 of them for a black bracket and the other one for a ground.

 

This is truly a Godsend. I was PM-ing and e-mailing members for specifically this info. And then I found the truth, which is this post! Thanks, and keep up the good work.

Mark K.

 

update?

 

alright guys I have my inlinePRO 3mm HG installed as well as the oil jet bolt upgrade done. I am going to upload all the images and the writeup details tonight or tomorrow.

I have a question however. I used new OEM head bolts and have heard that these need to be heat cycled and then re-tourqued to spec... is this correct? also I am going to be installing my AEM 1052 and 1000cc precision injectors this weekend as well and since the map I had thought I was going to load onto the EMS is off a 1012 and members here have told me that it will not work on the newer 1052 model I am not sure how I am going to start and warm the car up to heat cycle the head bolts??? Does anyone know if the Basemap that comes with the EMS would work for my needs of starting and warming the head bolts? I would need to adjust it for the 1000cc injectors correct? Lastly is there any way to fix my other map so I can use it to drive to the dyno to tune? or am I going to have to drive on the basemap?

Thanks for your help... the writeup will continue shortly!

 

What I did is I left the stock injectors on and did not hit boost and drove very very slowly to the tuners. and then installed new injectors and the tuner adjusted accordingly.

The aem software did bring said s2000 basemap its for a more likely stock s2k so the need of stock injectors is necessary.. Im not sure about the whole heat cycle, but if you just need to warm up the motor then yea, leave the stock injectors and you should be fine..

Thats my story hope it helps you man.

Good luck and thanks for your pics they will be helpful soon

 

Question that I was curious about, when removing the cams is the a certain way to put them back in? So it lines up the way it was or is this a stupid question?

Thankz..

 

you need to put the engine at TDC before removing the cams. this will make the first mark on the crank pulley line up with the arrow on the block. Also the cam gears will have 2 lines that line up facing each other. when putting it all back together put the cams back with the lines facing. This is all you need to worry about.

 

so I cannot format the base map to run with the 1000cc injectors?