Post your Catch Can Setups
Wouldn't this be the simplest and most effective catch can set up? One hose from the valve cover to this to filter out the oil and the other hose back into the intake pipe. This also has a easy drain valve and interior filter for the oil.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...illocation=int
I know supra owners run this set up.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...illocation=int
I know supra owners run this set up.
A piece of hose with a bolt or something similar plugging the open end.
I use heat shrink caps on mine, they are pretty rigid and will probably handle some boost as well.
Link to show an example https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-E.../dp/B00ZYTQ9KM
I use heat shrink caps on mine, they are pretty rigid and will probably handle some boost as well.
Link to show an example https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-E.../dp/B00ZYTQ9KM

As for removing the hardline that connects the valve cover vent to the intake arm and has those two small hoses from what seems to be the fuel rail, what do I do with those? Leave them open? Is the thick-ish line underneath the TB connected to that hardline a coolant line or just the air pump line?
I think you got both air pump lines and a coolant line.
The coolant one can be capped off, it's just for heating up the TB and IACV.
The air pump stuff you might need a specific delete kit to be able to remove without a CEL, unless you got an aftermarket ecu?
The coolant one can be capped off, it's just for heating up the TB and IACV.
The air pump stuff you might need a specific delete kit to be able to remove without a CEL, unless you got an aftermarket ecu?
I'll leave the air pump as is. I don't have a stand alone. Got a piggy back unit yes but that's not in until I decide to slap my Vortech on. Need a few bits before doing that.
Um, what's the purpose of heating up the TB? is it for warming up the cat faster for better emissions control?
I assume if I leave the coolant hoses open without a bridge between them (hardline seems to be the bridge now) I'll have coolant spilling everywhere? Think I know the answer lol.
I assume if I leave the coolant hoses open without a bridge between them (hardline seems to be the bridge now) I'll have coolant spilling everywhere? Think I know the answer lol.
It's just to help the TB not to freeze up in very cold conditions, it's also heats up the idle air control valve which sits on the side of the intake manifold.
If you follow the coolant line it will end at the thermostat housing, so if you don't want to plug it up you could route it down there directly instead and bypass the TB and IACV.
If you follow the coolant line it will end at the thermostat housing, so if you don't want to plug it up you could route it down there directly instead and bypass the TB and IACV.
It's just to help the TB not to freeze up in very cold conditions, it's also heats up the idle air control valve which sits on the side of the intake manifold.
If you follow the coolant line it will end at the thermostat housing, so if you don't want to plug it up you could route it down there directly instead and bypass the TB and IACV.
If you follow the coolant line it will end at the thermostat housing, so if you don't want to plug it up you could route it down there directly instead and bypass the TB and IACV.

OK so I could follow the line down to the thermostat and bypass it up top. I've seen many videos now where after the intake arm hardline has been removed, they run a hose directly from the port closest to the runners to that port coming from the IACV. Seems like the easiest way?
I just wanna prevent oil going into my IM asap and might get a catch can for the PCV itself to vent into then delete the hardline and run a breather filter on the valve cover vent. I could then run a return from the catch can to the IM port to ensure vacuum is present for the PCV because it seems like the can I can get locally doesn't not have a breather port on it. It's the D1 Spec.









